A
taste of Europe with a Modern twist
It was earlier in
the 19th century when the Yarra Valley first had the vine take hold.
Swiss
immigrants soon saw
the potential of the area and what became Yering Station was first
established
in 1849 by Paul de
Castella. Soon more wineries were established with Pauls Brother
Hubert and
Baron Guillaume de
Pury starting St Huberts and Yeringberg respectively.
Melbourne was a
wealthy city due to the Gold Rush. But a combination of phylloxera, a
move to
fortifieds ,the
depression of 1891 and competition from other wine regions from
interstate post
federation caused
the decline in the region. By 1937 there were no more vines in the
Yarra Valley.
Phoenix
rising
In the mid to late
1960's the region began afresh with new enthusiasm and a move towards
table
wines again. Dr
Bailey Carrodus at Yarra Yering, Dr John Middleton at Mount Mary ,
Reg Egan
from Wantirna Estate
and the resurgence of Yeringberg by Guill de Pury. The persistence
and
determination along
with the high quality of the wines attracted the likes of James
Halliday at
Coldstream Hills and
Domaine Chandon with Tony Jordan and De Bortoli. From here the region
has gone from
strength to strength.
People
The Yarra Valley now
has a diverse range of well travelled winemakers and vignerons of
exceptional talent
and personalities that have a national voice.
The stalwarts fom
the internationally famous wine writer James Halliday and Steve Weber
the
seasoned
professional at De Bortoli to the winemakers of the year like Steve
Flamsteed, Tom
Carson , Sarah Crowe
and David Bicknell to the younger experimeters and innovators like
Out of
Step and Mac Forbes
and many others making great wine without the fanfare like Scott
McCarthy,
Rob 'Sticks”
Dolan, Andrew Fleming , Marc Lunt and Andrew Santarossa amongst many
others.
Old families of the
region still make wine. And it was enjoyable to visit the Yeringberg
vineyard and
historic winery and chat with the humble and quietly spoken Sandra de
Pury. She was
kind enough to let
me plunge the Shiraz.
The sharing of ideas
and the willingnesss to experiment means that whatever nature deals
up
the region can mould
wines of interest and elegance. Combined with being the lovechild of
Melbourne to assist
in the finance at the quality end of the industry.
The
Climate
The region in
general is quite cool. Colder than Bordeaux and warmer than Burgundy
but with a
greater diurnal
range than both meaning that the day temperatures can be quite warm
in summer but
the average
temperature cool.
The region in
Australia closest in climate to the Yarra would appear to be
Tumbarumba
NSW albeit
marginally cooler than the Yarra. They share a large diurnal range
from night to day but
Tumbarumba has a
slightly higher growing season rainfall but similar harvest period
rainfall.
Coonawarra has very
similar temperatures but is much drier normally so later ripening
varieties are
probably under less disease pressure and have a greater possibility
of uninterupted
hang time than in
the Yarra. Coonawarra also shares a generally homogenous climate
whereas the
Yarra has many
varied and undulating aspects.
The Willamette
Valley in Oregon USA also shares some temperature similarities but is
somewhat drier
overall and has a cooler spring than in the Yarra.
The comparison below
is with Coldstream on the southern end of the valley.The sub
regional variation
due to elevation , aspect and exposure to warm northerly winds will
no doubt
alter the range of
what can ripen. The northern area around Dixons Creek being warmer
and the
higher areas of
Seville and Hoddles Creek considerably wetter and cooler. Any
isolated hills that
could moderate the
diurnal range variation would no doubt help in extending the scope of
what
ripens which may be
the case at Yarra Yering and surrounds.
WHAT
DOES WELL
Chardonnay
Nearly every winery
in the Yarra makes a Chardonnay and this variety is by far the most
successful
for even the
unintiated makes a descent chardonnay. And the best examples cover a
few styles
where elegance and
complexity come to the for. It all depends on how much Sly and the
Family
Stone you can
handle.
For full on funk
Oakridge is the leader , this style tends to get better and more
interesting with age
but it's not for
everyone.
I quite liked the
richer and more muscular Tarrawarra, and Giant Steps find a good
middle ground
between funk and
fruit weight. Even smaller Wineries like Pimpernel had some tasty
drinks.
For my taste I
quite preferred the fresh acid line and length but with a fruit lift
with a little
funk or none at all
from the higher areas of the Yarra up in Seville and Hoddles Creek ,
but for value
for money De Bortoli
do a great job from the warmer Dixons Creek .The Lusatia Park
vineyard
above 200m elevation
up near Hoddles creek no matter who made the wine also gave great
wines. I
think it is now
owned soley by De Bortoli.
SHIRAZ
Although other red
varieties are more favoured in the Yarra and more widely planted. For
me this variety is
hands down the most interesting red coming out of the Yarra. The
lifted white
pepper and berry
fruits that a well made one can deliver provide a tasty and wonderful
contrast to
the typical
chocolate vanilla and alcohol that comes from the Barossa.People need
to step outside
their South
Australian comfort zone and try more elegant shiraz wines. De
Bortoli, Giant Steps and
Seville Estate are a
great place to start.
OLDER VINE
BORDEAUX Blends
Some of the low
yielding older vine blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and associates can
provide
lovely elegance and
interest. Yarra Yering ,Yeringberg and Mount Mary are testament to
that. And I
tried a Cabernet
blend from the southern Yarra at Helens Hill that was wonderfully
varietal and
fleshy without the
green edges. Oakridge also had an older blend that was great from a
warmer year.
I think the secret
to getting good cabernet blends is the higher isolated hill sites in
the middle of the
valley that are
north facing that fully ripen the varieties when the growth and
yields are managed
well or in the
northern warmer section where there is more heat load. The lower
valley floor sites
are probably less
suitable and the higher altutude sites in the southeast more
challenging.
WHAT
THEY CLAIM TO DO WELL
Pinot Noir
The region does make
some great Pinot Noir. But for me this variety has the most hype and
it tends
to under deliver.
The ones that can get some flesh and suppleness into their wines I
preferred like
Mandala “the
Prophet”, Giant Steps and for quaffability 'the Village' at De
Bortoli. Tarrawarra once
again had an
interesting muscular style like the chardonnay and I found Pimpernel
Pinots to be
good. Yeringberg for
me is the best of the more delicate style.
Others in general
were lighter fruit styles with a hardness either from too much stem
or over
extracted and
angular and astringent. The tannins are noticeable in the Pinots
compared to other
regions. So any
techniques to soften the tannins and add some flesh could only help.
Some producers from
Willamette valley in Oregon use very gentle techniques so any
adoption of these
would be welcome.
Heavier toast oak
was used in some wineries to fill the palate out, not always
successfully.
Cabernet
Sauvignon Commercially
Even though Cabernet
blends can be good particularly from lower yielding older vines and
warmer
sites within the mid
to northern section of the valley .
Generally speaking
on it's own the commercial styles that were readily available suffer
from
overly green
elements that for me are unattractive. The region seems almost
marginal for Cabernet
when made on a
commercial level and I think they accept this greener character in
their wines
through familiarity
or necessity because the variety is so widely planted.
The climate trend
of warming may improve the ripeness and flesh of the Cabernet
Sauvignon in
the Yarra across the
board.
SURPRISES
MERLOT
Merlot generally across Australia is disappointing with only a few
regions doing it well. So it was a
surprise to try one at Coldstream Hills that was delicious. Which I
think was solely Yarra valley
fruit. This variety should do well in the region as it ripens a bit
earlier and is rain tolerant. Providing
the right clones are planted. Although tannin ripeness may be an
issue.
Sauvignon Blanc
If you are looking for something a little different Dominque Portet
does a fuller barrel fermented
sauvignon blanc which is quite interesting. Out of Step also had a
great 'wild' example and
BoatO'Craigo had a vibrant style..
Best
Of
White Blend: Yarra Yering Dry White No.1
Sauvignon Blanc: Boat O'Craigo or Out of Step
Chardonnay: Seville Estate or Wines from the Lusatia Park Vineyard
Pinot Noir: Fuller style : Mandala “The Prophet” Delicate style:
Yeringberg
Shiraz: Giant Steps
Merlot: Coldstream Hills
Cabernet Blend: Helen's Hill for right Now Yarra Yering Dry Red No.1
for a decade on.
Best Value: De Bortoli
Fancy Pants Cellar Door: Domaine Chandon or Levantine hill
Cosy cellar Experience: Tarrawarra or Coombe Farm
Graze and taste: Giant Steps
Off the Beaten Track: :Long Gully Estate
Best alternate varieties: Soumah
Interesting Low Input Minimalists: Out Of Step and Bobar
Off the Grid: Serrat and Yeringberg
Other
Activities
Cheese
The Yarra Valley dairy
Right in the middle of the valley this is a great break from the
wines try the goat feta.
Chocolate
Just north east of Yarra Glen.
The free chocolate and Willy Wonka style outfits of the staff with
windows into the making of the
chocolate and a massive outdoor play area along with the ice cream.
This is the place to bribe the
kids on visiting a few more wineries. That is if you can ply them
away from the place.
Food
Healesville Hotel has some great options
Giant Steps also has a large high roofed area and a window into the
winery where you can
graze and relax in the afternoon
Beer
The White Rabbit Brewery is right behind Giant Steps in Healesville .
They do season brews
and have a few different brews on tap.
Balloon
Riding
Nearby
Excursions
High
country forests
Melbourne
Laneways
Cycling
in the Middle valley off roads