The Douro river cuts through the Portuguese hillside like a knife with sheer hills covered in terraced vineyards falling into the river. The warmest parts of the region closest to the river. From here near Pinhao you climb up the winding road like a goat searching for the sunny reaches and cooler air where the breeze finally makes an appearance. Climbing up what must be one of the most picturesque drives through vineyards in the world you make a hard right and work your way along ancient schist walls of stone cleared from the surrounding land. This one lane winding road brings you to a patchwork of vineyards and exits one of which leads to Secret Spot wines. Also known as Quinta Da Faisca (lighting or spark). As the hills around here are a beacon for the lightning storms that can occur.

I was picked up by Goncalo and his son in a English Landrover before meeting up with Hugo the winemaker and the whole crew.

Joao , Ceila , Rui, and Miguel.  

Goncalo was kind enough to show me some of the red grape vineyards that they were possibly going to buy fruit from.

Old vineyards in many different aspects and conditions. From well maintained expertly grown and managed vineyards to neglected vines struggling to bear fruit on forgotten cliffs and  hillsides. The quality of the fruit from some of these older vineyards up to 100 years old was something to behold with certain varieties giving colour flavour and extract while other varieties on the same plot are lighter and carry more acidity. Nearly all the older vineyards are a patchwork of Portuguese grape varieties some known (Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Cao, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barrocca, Sezao, Alicante bouschet etc) some unknown even by the locals. What they have garnered is to get a feel for what each vineyard gives them in terms of quality and flavour.

The Favaios region where most of the white Moscatel Galego Branco grape is grown (Muscat Blanc a petit grains), lies on top of the Douro hills some 500-700m above sea level compared to the main centre Pinhao on the banks of the Douro at 96m. This elevation means that they have better exposure to cooling breezes and cooler day temperatures due to the elevation. 

In real terms this means that white grapes can grow quite successfully up here compared to the hotter areas below maintaining some freshness and acidity. 

The vineyards around the Quinta are mostly white grapes of Moscatel Galego Branco,  with a few other varieties that can add something to the blend like Viosinho, Gouveio, Malvasia Fina and Rabigato.The winemaking is quite involved with the guiding hand of Hugo having worked under the likes of Rui Cunha and now fully in charge he brings a wealth of knowledge and experience to the secret spot stable. Goncalo being an expert viticulturist having many clients he consults for. The combination combined with the ethos of only the best will do means that they are making some exceptional wines at bargain prices.

Their red grapes come from smaller holdings of older vineyards within the Douro Valley with more stoney schists soils as mentioned earlier. They are all dry grown on the cliff like and terraced vineyards that collapse into the Douro river. These vineyards vary in age but in general are anywhere from 20 years old a young vineyard to some post phylloxera plantings in the late 1800's. With many some 50-100 years old. This wealth of vine age and the dry grown vines that struggle to hold their position makes for low yields and high quality yet the price per tonne is not always reflected in the quality. Due in part to the unfashionable nature of port. But these varieties when made into full bodied dry red wine can make for impressive drinks (particularly in expert hands).

Grapes are meticulously hand sorted to avoid unripe grapes and overtly shrivelled ones as well as unsuitable varieties in the field blend.

The whites are made like any aromtic white but with an element of lees contact in tank and some barrel fermented wood influence to a lesser degree

The reds are made in a more extracted style with long vat time and long barrel maturation to round and soften the fuller style , but it seems to work remarkably well for these Portuguese old vine red varieties.

I found their whites beautifully balanced and fresh with a muscat lychee lift yet a good balance between texture and freshness.

Having tasted some aged examples they can get quite interesting but still remain somewhat youthful and bright with age.

The reds had a full and structured elegance with no overbaked flavours or underipe tannins. They were expertly realised with length depth and dark fruited balance.

The Portuguese people I worked with are an understated friendly crew who cpuld get animated but showed a degree of humility compared to their Spanish neighbours. It was a delightful working experience with the regular lunches and good Portuguese coffee and Miguels driving. Haha 

Thanks to Goncalo, Hugo and the crew for making me welcome. Abrigado.

Alchemy was the ancient practice of attempting to turn other metals into gold. Over the years it became a metaphor for practitioners as a form of purification of the soul. 

These philosophers and metallurgists were students of nature and in their search for the Philosopher's Stone and the Elixir of Life they laid the foundations that gave birth to clinical diagnosis and toxicology. 

What would develop into modern medicine?

Are winemakers the new alchemists?

And is red wine the elixir of life?

The medical community is torn.

Alcohol in general is a bad actor in the drama of life, with the sheer volume of diseases and causative factors pointing back to alcohol consumption. Particularly during pregnancy, in the earlier years of brain development, adolescence, and later in life for organ failure, cancer, neurodegenerative diseases, type 2 diabetes, and cardiovascular diseases. Sorry sad but true.

But is this the whole story? Well no.

When looking at the many studies over many years, you must look at them in depth. And when delving deeper the following points come to the surface.

1/ High levels of alcohol consumption are a significant factor in the onset of Cancer, Neurodegenerative Diseases, Type 2 Diabetes, and Cardiovascular diseases no arguments there.

2/ Diet is also a major factor in increasing or lowering the risk of developing these conditions.

3/ Low to Moderate wine consumption actually has a beneficial effect on lowering the risk of all of the above diseases except cancer. 

But  a Mediterranean diet that includes moderate wine consumption during your adult life is associated with a reduced risk of cancer.

This is a controversial topic in the medical research field. As above 20g of alcohol consumption per day was associated with an increased risk in mortality but 10g (one standard drink) or less had no associated risk in regards to cancer.

4/ Drinking red wine in particular has a substantial benefit over other wines due to the levels of antioxidants in the form of tannins and other flavanols (components associated with the grape skin among other derivations).

These compounds contribute to decreases in damaging oxidative processes within the body.

5/ Due to in part the addictive nature of some individuals to alcohol consumption and the associated bad health outcomes of heavy drinking. 

The medical community it seems would prefer messaging of abstaining from alcohol consumption altogether even though low to moderate-level red wine drinkers were at a lower risk of developing Neurodegenerative Diseases, Type 2 Diabetes and Cardiovascular diseases than non-drinkers or heavy drinkers.

6/ Combining low to moderate red wine consumption with a Mediterranean diet has many benefits, as the wine and the food (olive oil, vegetables, etc.) contain anti-oxidants. 

When consumed with the meal red wine may assist in the assimilation of some of these antioxidants in both the food and the wine. The combination of a Mediterranean diet with red wine may in fact help with anti-aging. 

The effects of alcohol when red wine is consumed with a meal may be decreased due to the gradual nature of drinking and the absorption effects of the foods.

So what does this mean?

You may have heard of the poster boy of antioxidants in wine Resveratrol.

This is one of the many constituents in red wine derived from the skin of the grape berry that can also be found in other red coloured berries. Many studies have shown that Resveratrol may prolong lifespan (although further research is needed).

Combined with other anti-oxidants in red wine it assists in combating many of the diseases mentioned above, especially when matched with a  Mediterranean diet. 

More effective than a Mediterranean diet alone.

So when searching for the new alchemist head down to your local wine store for the elixir of life. RED WINE

 (in moderation) and obviously of legal drinking age. Cheers

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9824172/

https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/24/5/4491#:~:text=In%20conclusion%2C%20mitochondrial%20dysfunction%20and,the%20maintenance%20of%20mitochondrial%20function.//pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9824172/#B139-nutrients-15-00175.

https://www.health.qld.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0032/946049/cardiac-meddiet.pdf

https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/news/features/red-wine-mediterranean-diet/

Wine has been made for millennia from the early days in Georgia every Supra feast deserving a toast by the Tamada (toastmaster)  to the guests and host alike.

Modern day styles of wine and the global nature of commerce has seen every far flung style of wine available to people who would have never had some wines in their diet before.

From Tokaji being drunk in South America, Assyrtico in Australia, Shiraz in California heaven forbid Zinfandel in France and all of Asia now getting on board where once the drink was as foreign as hot dogs.

So what are the rules if any on matching food and wine. And what comes first?

Well the answer of course is up to you. If you want to drink that full bodied shiraz or light Pinot Noir with your favourite dish go ahead.

But for many of the traditional wine making countries they have always had wine with their food or food with their wine.

So a great guide to the styles and matching in these countries tends to be more straight forward as the local cuisine and local traditional wines tend to go well together. Think Florentine food and Chianti, Bordeaux and slow cooked lamb.

What about the new world what goes with what?

I have found that with a little elbow room and flexibility it is surprising how some wines will match with some cuisine.

But as a guide here are my top 5 tips for food and wine matching:

1/ Match the weight of the food with the weight of the wine

A big bold red will dominate the lighter cuisine of something like Vietnamese where nothing other than the wine will be tasted.

Seafood and big reds don't work but don't rule out some lighter reds that have a freshness and lack any firm tannin grip.

2/ Sweetness of the food should not be sweeter than the wine.

A dry tannic red with a sweet dish will make the wine taste bitter and hard and the dish overly rich.

3/ At some point chilli and hot foods will not match with wine.

The heat of the dish can cope with off dry white wines when the spicy hot elements are not excessive. And mild spiced dishes might work with a soft round red. But at some point that blow your head off curry is not even suitable for the right beer but becomes the sole domain of milk or yoghurt.

4/ Acidity is a great palate refresher getting you ready for the next bight. 

Higher acid wines go well with dishes that have higher acidity than the wine. Think Sangiovese and tomato based Italian dishes.

The acidity is also great to cut through fatty dishes like battered fish with a  fresh dry Riesling.

5/  Tannic reds need some protein in the food to moderate the drying sensations. Where the protein coats the tongue and binds with the tannins to create a smoother tasting sensation. This could mean a big meaty steak dish or that black bean burger or mushroom pizza.

Conversely lighter dishes go better with red and white wines that have little or no tannins to obstruct the flavours.

Just have fun the whole red meat red wine white meat white wine is not entirely true as many reds can now have lower levels of tannin and higher acidity and some white wines can have an element of tannin (albeit rarely) and lower acidity. 

I always choose the wine first when wine and food matching. But of course I would .

History

Port Winemaking stems from the strong relationship that England and Portugal developed over many centuries.

From the falling out with the French in trade in 1667 the Port wine industry blossomed, but even before this there were Englishmen involved in the wine trade of Portugal.

Many wines were shipped from the coastal producing regions and these wines seemed to be less popular due to the higher rainfall and cooler less sunny weather in the Vinho verdes region . So gradually the winemaking and grape growing began to develop much further inland where the hot days cool nights and drier climate provided ripe strong red wines that were favoured by the English palate.

The Douro became this amazing patchwork of vineyards where the local winemakers and growers would provide the power and richness from the multitude of local grape varieties. 

The journey across to England would be treacherous and not conducive to keeping the wine in good condition. The addition of a little brandy was used to stop the wines from spoiling. Initially this would strengthen the wine in body and weight but was by no means the same as the fortification of the ports today.

The extreme nature of the vineyards and the slopes mean that the port was transported via boats (Rabelos) to Gaia opposite Porto where the Port houses would mature them in different sized wooden casks. 

The terraces as seen today in the upper Douro had been extensively built post phylloxera where the Gallegos from the north came down and helped construct the walls by hand for food and board such was the desperation of the time.

The Countries name stems from the combination of Porto and Gaia that back in Roman times was known as Cale to become Portugal.

In the 18th century the Marques of Pombal stepped in when fraudulent port was being made that was lowering the quality of the wines. By doing so they created the first remnants of the later appellation systems that are now commonplace in the European vineyards.

The Fortification process that is now common today where brandy spirit is added to fermenting grape marc or juice to stop the fermentation and leave some residual grape sugars. Was not entirely adopted until after the exceptional vintage of 1820. It was demonstrated that the power and richness that fortification delivered, lead to an increased uptake in the main English market.

Vintage ports would carry favour with the English in the early 20th century and traditionally the wines that did not make it to England were then stored and matured these became popular with the local Portuguese the Tawny ports (Tawny due to their colour after ageing).

Other Countries in Europe began to gravitate towards some of the fortified styles being made in the Douro.

Today their are many styles of Port being made

White port:

Ruby Port: 

Early released lower intensity simple aged in larger vats for early release. Entry level style wines that are usually lacking in character but are approachable in price.

Reserve ports:

They have a bit more character and richness than the Ruby ports but still lack the complexity that great tawny and vintage ports deliver.

LBV (Late bottled Vintage Ports):

 Tend to have more extract and power than the two previous styles and a bit more interest due to the 4-6 years in barrel.

Tawny ports: 

These can be simpler commercial styles usually from the big houses, even with considerable age. Or complex amazing gems that have true interest and balance that smaller houses seem to be more successful at providing. The knowledge required to make top tawny ports has been evolving for many years and the expertise required is no doubt not truly appreciated by the wine world. Not all tawny ports are created equally.

Vintage ports:

 Although I am a fan of top tawny ports its the consistency and quality of Vintage port that I truly admire. Having a more vinous quality and with less tertiary flavours than a tawny due to the shorter barrel ageing (2 or so years) before time aged in bottle. The Vintage ports when done well provide a sublime rich and delightful tasting experience. The wines are usually a little drier than what a fortified style would be in Australia and the varietal mix is so varied that every Port producer has their own unique fingerprint. The structure and power of dark fruits in a vintage port and the longevity, they seem to blossom after 20 years in bottle where the fruit is still evident but the firmness and the alcohol have become secondary players. Too early and the alcohol burn is still evident too late and some of the primary fruit characters have dissipated, which some people may prefer. The timing for this will vary to some degree from each producer as the mix of varieties, method of extraction and quality and type of spirit.Some vintage ports can age gracefully for a long time.

Producers seem to fall into two camps the old school baked style where grape shrivel may impart prune like elements to the style.

But most switched on producers are getting fruit that is super sugar ripe without excessive grape shrivel most notably from the northern facing slopes where they get less heat. These provide more fruit vibrancy and will age more gracefully and become more interesting than the soupy baked styles.

How is it Made?

The traditions of Port making continue to this day with a patchwork of varieties planted throughout the upper Douro the region is only now planting vineyards with single varieties. 

The soils of the region are marked by schist which have been flipped vertically to create channels for the roots to grab a foothold on these steep slopes.

All the older vineyards are a melting pot of grapes from Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca to Tinta Cao, Tinta barrocca , Sezão, Tinta Roriz and many other varieties that some locals are not able to identify. Alicante boushet that in some regions looks dead set ordinary, is quite exceptional on the lower yielding sites in the Douro for both Fortified and Table wine.

This diversity is both a strength and a weakness as the winemakers get to know the vineyards and through experience provide a unique identity from that vineyard. The vineyard plots aspect, vine age , planting technique and the mix of varieties mean that no two vineyards are alike. Giving the port makers an amazing array of blending options if they so wish.

When the grapes are picked they are sorted for more expensive lots and /or crushed into Lagres. These are different shaped open red fermentation tanks that are generally made out of stone, concrete and in some modern examples even stainless steel. The crushed grapes are spread over a large surface area compared to other red fermentations and so the depth of the fermentation is usually only knee deep.

The local students or workers are then hired to tread they grapes in the initial maceration. This last for four hours or so so that all the grapes are crushed and you end up having a mirror like quality to the surface of the grape must. Then the maceration prior to fermentation can last up to 4-7 days or even longer after which the fermentation begins. Some producers will transfer the must to regular tanks fro fermentation due to space limitations will others will traditionally tread the grapes during the fermentation still in the lagres. 

Bigger houses have mimicked the treading process via elaborate machines but generally speaking are still not as good as the real thing. A technique that I believe is unique to Portugal?

After a short time fermenting having extracted the maximum amount of colour and flavour for the style desired the must is fortified with a brandy of around 77%. The quality of the brandy has a considerable effect on the style of the port. And unfortunately most of the brandy used for this process is sourced from outside of Portugal so a high percentage of the components of the ports is in theory not from Portugal. A bit of a slight on their industry for if they could fix this issue it would do a lot for struggling growers and lift the quality of the Port styles and vineyards even more. With the less favourable plots being dedicated to brandy production.

After fortification the grape must may spend more time on skins to extract more or pulled off early to get a more approachable style.

Then pressed the vintage ports and finer styles directed for tawny ports will go into smaller older barrels of 225 to 600l . The earlier release ports (ruby, white etc) will go into much larger vessels.

The wines were then traditionally taken to Gaia opposite Porto to be stored in the more humid environment conducive for quality barrel ageing and blended in these port houses. Many of which are still in place today.

The blending of the tawny ports in itself is quite a skill to maintain the house style and still give a quality wine. Even the parcels for the Vintage port need an element of skill in the blending due to the vast array of parcels for some of the houses.

The region has many amazing fortified wines but also a lot of producers cashing in on the style.

What's exciting in this region is just how good the white and red table wines can be which I will elaborate with further posts.. An area I think they should expand on and spend less time on the dwindling fortified market. Just keep the good stuff. 

Mind you that's easy to say from the cheap seats. This is a region with a strong history and tradition and change is slow but the changes are happening and the quality of some of the wines is exceptional without question.

 Pinot Noir is a notoriously fickle grape. With typically lower colour and tannin due to thinner skins than many other well known red grape varieties. 

The variety first emerged from the history books back in 1375 when not long after Philip the Bold the Duke of Burgundy banned the Gamay grape from Burgundy in favour of Pinot Noir. But it is said to have been growing in the region some 2000 years ago when the Romans arrived.

People have made it their noble quest in making great pinot noir having tasted it’s best self from a bottle of tasty burgundy in a good year.

It does not give generously when it comes to yield , has a tighter pine cone shaped like bunch that does not like wet weather so can rot easily. Can become flabby and boring if grown in too warm a climate and become just a soft red wine, or in too cooler a climate can be too aggressively bitter and tart due to the higher acidity and unripe tannins.

Ask 10 winemakers how to make Pinot Noir and they will give ten even 20 answers. So how does Tasmania stand up when it comes to Pinot Noir.

Pinot Noir has three styles as far as I can see ,

1/ There is the dry red soft easy uninteresting style that tends to be grown in warmer to hot regions they have alcohol on their side but would not be considered varietal pinot as its more about quaff-ability. They look more dry red that lacks any distinguishable pinot character except perhaps the lack of tannin.

2/ The more delicate red fruits and perfumed spice style: these tend to come from cooler regions don’t tend to have much flesh are more about bright acidity lifted perfume and fresh vibrant flavours. The wines may get more perfume and structure from cab mac and more weight and texture from barrel fermentation and maturation and some lees contact, possibly MLF in barrel. But the fruit spectrum is somewhat more delicate that the last style.

3/ When in a cool to mild regions the Pinot Grape can move into red fruits with a percentage of darker fruits. They tend to have more flesh and palate weight and can have much more structure. The alcohol levels are typically a little higher than the delicate style and the acidity marginally lower. But just like the delicate style the amount of structure and the flesh may depend on the winemakers philosophy of extraction, carbonic maceration % and the type of oak treatment. The tannins tend to be riper than in the cooler regions.

Tasmania on the whole falls into camp no.2 . There are a few exceptions with more fuller styles being produced in parts of the Coal River being one of the dryer warmer day cooler night type climates further north away from Hobart. And parts of the upper Derwent seem to get more body as well. Clones may help with more body and flesh coming from the Pommard , MV6 and 777 even 667 and more aromatics coming from the 114 & 115. Once the winemakers get some runs on the board with clonal familiarity more and more great pinots will come out of Tassie. As they have only just scratched the surface.

My Top Ten of Tassie that I tasted. Try saying that ten times after a few drinks.

 Their are many more to explore.

Bay Of Fires- Fruit sourced mostly from the Coal River Valley but with Derwent Valley and East Coast fruit this wine has much more flesh than many other Tassie examples. Rich fleshy yet still beautifully varietal with dark cherry plum and raspberries and a hint of strawberry. A great balance between flesh and bright flavours.

https://www.bayoffireswines.com.au/

Pressing Matters- Beautiful aromatic and lifted pretty red fruits the palate shows some darker cherry and flesh not as full as the Bay of Fires but just as interesting. (Stargazer is also one of the wines made by the same winemaker). These guys also make Riesling to die for if that's your thing.

https://www.pressingmatters.com.au/

Sailor Seeks Horse- From a warmer north facing site in the Huon Valley. A much more delicate style that also has a remarkable structure. The slow ripening on the vine combined with a wonderful selection of clones gives this wine a complexity that few could match. The wine will no doubt get pretty interesting and savoury as it ages. These guys will in future probably make the most interesting Pinot in Tassie. Providing the weather cooperates.

https://sailorseekshorse.com.au/sailor

Chatto-  Also from the Huon on a ridge behind Sailor Seeks Horse. Jimbo has a world of experience and his hands off approach is how many of the Tassie winemakers are making their Pinots. Here the wines are a true expression of the vineyards (other regions as well) they come from but beautifully balanced with no winemaking trickery getting in the way. As I've said before like Miles Davis you have to learn all the notes to know what not to play. He also is lucky enough to travel to Burgundy to make some wine there in the second half of the year. Not sure how Daisy feels about that.

https://www.chattowines.com/

Dawson & James- From the upper Derwent off older vines of the MV6 and Pommard clones. The soils are lighter in the Upper Derwent so unlike other areas of Tasmania their is a delicacy to the fruit coming from the soil. The wine finds a balance between texture and prettiness the older vines garnering a complexity and fullness despite the soil profile. Maybe due in part to these more fleshy full clones being used. They get a suppleness to their Pinot which is hard to master and no doubt speaks of the years of experience that Smokey and Tim have. And with Pinot Noir experience counts.

https://dawsonjames.com.au/

Springvale- East Coast estate fruit on red soils with a mixture of Pinot Clones. The wine has full honest straight forward raspberry and dark cherry flesh with a easy drinkability. The velvety nature of the wine and the round shape in the mouth make it a pleasure to drink.

https://www.springvalewines.com/2016-pinot-noir

Glatzer-Dixon- Structured and complex. A fish out of water in this line up being very different in style but made for the long haul. The fruit is picked on tannin ripeness rather than acidity and this gives Nick options with extraction you would not attempt on fruit that is not tannin ripe. The wines are much more layered and complex and when he combines all the techniques you get a more vinous wine and less tuitty fruity. Having worked at Domaine Albert Morot no doubt he has a feel for what is possible.

https://www.gdfwinemakers.com/

Handpicked- Surprisingly aromatic and pretty but with that Hallmark Tamar profile of Raspberry and cherry. The palate has a plush honesty yet still retains a brightness, with the noticeable oak giving the wine an attractive round creaminess.

https://handpickedwines.com.au/en/2019-auburn-road-vineyard-tasmania-pinot-noir

Mt Amos- Wines from the Tamar Ridge/Devils Corner stable are in complete juxtaposition to the Glatzer-Dixon model. Here Tom picks with acidity constantly in mind. Looking for bright aromatic and expressively red fruited styles. The wines I can attest age remarkably well having sampled way to many at the vintage break up party. The honesty of the style with both red  and hints of dark fruits  but with noticeable acidity. The wine is probably going to be at its best in a few years.

Pooley wines in the Richmond area of the Coal River Valley. The Butchers Hill had layers of interest and darker fruits and a element of new oak that may not please purests but helped structure the wine into something interesting.

https://www.pooleywines.com.au/wine/butcher-s-hill-pinot-noir/22835/

Under The Radar Wines

Upper Derwent: Future Perfect a pinot that has texture and prettiness all with an alcohol of 12.2 %

https://www.futureperfect.vision/

Huon-  Elsewhere (not so under the radar ) a pretty delicate  style slightly cooler than Chatto and Sailor seeks horse although being directly behind Chatto wines.

https://www.elsewherevineyard.com.au/new-products/2016-pinot-noir

Tamar- Swinging Gate fuller style of Pinot 

https://swinginggatewines.com.au/

East Coast- Boomer Creek great views great riesling and pinot.

https://boomercreekvineyard.com.au/

Coal River- Craiggow has interesting pinot same clone different soils taste the difference.

https://www.craigow.com.au/

                   Merriworth had  fuller fleshier darker fruited style pinot with an attractive supple element

https://merriworth.com.au/product/2021-estate-pinot-noir-750ml/

Pipers- Sinapius has a pretty red fruited pinot with some rhubarb elements.

https://sinapius.com.au/product/2021-close-planted-pinot-noir/

             Apogee is also worth a detour

https://www.apogeetasmania.com/

WINES I DID NOT get to taste

Dr Edge

Tolpuddle

Stargazer

Giant Steps

When I first visited the Tamar valley on my way to Tamar Ridge in Kayena to start the vintage in 2022. I was struck by the majesty and beauty of the river winding it's way up from Launceston to the Bass Strait. Here along this estuary were vineyards, stone fruit orchards olive groves and fishing villages as well as nature reserves and national parks just a short journey away.

The region is the engine room of the Tasmanian wine industry with over a third of Tasmania Production coming from the broader region.

The climate 

Maritime 

The region is definitely a cooler climate but warmer than the rest of Tasmania with the exception of some parts of the east coast depending on the year,  particularly the Northern section of the Tamar which benefits from the estuaries influence. The southern part of the region south of Launceston is a little bit cooler due to it's distance from the Tamar river . The cooler season gives them time to pick the grapes when they want to rather than be forced to pick due to rising sugar levels and lowering acidity. Many Austrian and German grape varieties should be suitable in this climate. Chardonnay is well suited. And Pinot Noirs problem may be a lack of heat and fuller ripeness which may be an advantage if your making a more delicate style rather than a structural Pinot. 

Due to the more maritime influences they may have a lot more hang time on the vine than say Burgundy. Which may mean that some of these vines will still get to some semblance of ripeness although being numerically cooler.

The Rosevears sub region will probably be a bit warmer based on the aspect and proximity to a large body of water . This may also be the case in some of the vineyards further north.

                                         MID SUMMER TEMPERATURES        HDD                  RAINFALL 

                                         Minimum / Mean /  Maximum               7Months              (mm)

Dijon Burgundy                    15.0     /  20.8   /     27.0                       1324                  474

Auxerre                                14.4     /  20.2   /     28                          1266                  433

Northern Launceston           12.6     /  18.7   /     24.8                       1243                  294

Southern Launceston           11.0    /   18.1   /     25.1                       1074                  292

Reims                                  12.9     /  18.8   /     24.7                        1018                  385

Geisenheim                         13.4     /  18.7   /     23.9                        1001                  342

http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages/tables/cw_091237.shtml  ( Northern Tamar Probably Slightly warmer and possibly more maritime than this site?)

http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages/tables/cw_091311.shtml ( Southern Tamar a little more diurnal range due to the distance from the Tamar River)

The sub regions

Their are new vineyard plantings near the airport as well as older plantings in Reibia. Further south east on your way to Ben Lomond at White Hills their are also large vineyard holdings mainly owned by Penfolds.. The southern section can be ripening fruit up to two or three weeks later than the north depending on the year.

Wines to Try : Josef Chromy , Penfolds (straight Pinot Noir or the Yattarna Chardonnay which has a % of Tasmanian fruit.)

In the Northern section you have

Legana 

 In amongst the urban sprawl one vineyard on lighter soils is able to ripen Cabernet Sauvignon no small feat in Tasmania.

Wineries: Velo Wines

Rosevears 

A warmer site that has an north easterly aspect and basalt soils. Probably some of the first fruit to be harvested in Tasmania due to its advantageous aspect on the ridge in front of a large body of estuarine water of the Tamar river.

Lots of vineyards here and wines made from both larger and smaller producers.

Gravelly Beach

 Is further north it has a few vineyards just up from the river and has produced some very smart chardonnay.

Wineries to try: Holyman wines/ Stoney Rise the Holyman Chardonnay is particularly good up their with the best in Tasmania.

Deviot 

A smaller vineyard has had some success with Shiraz where due to the aspect and proximity to the river (within 10-20m) they have been able to ripen shiraz on their steep east facing vineyard.

Wineries to Try: Marion's Vineyard

Kayena & Rowella

Here there are several vineyards that are surrounded on three sides by the river helping to moderate the climate. Larger vineyard holdings and smaller sites co exist. The whole gamut of varieties that are grown in Tasmania seem to thrive here. With a special mention to Shiraz as three producers have all had some very interesting and tasty cool climate styles. But both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were also impressive.

Wineries to try: Tamar Ridge, Holm Oak , Waterton Hall

Beaconsfield to Exeter 

Further back from the river but still with some maritime influence a few smaller producers are making some interesting wines from mainly chardonnay, pinot noir and the odd pinot gris even a couple of rieslings. Swinging Gate had an amarone style cabernet Pinot noir blend that was pretty interesting, and a more fleshy fuller Pinot Noir.

The grape varieties

What does well chardonnay is hands down the most interesting and high quality dependable variety, even the amateurs in the region are making decent chardonnay. 

Pinot Noir in the right hands with a good understanding of their vineyards , clones and winemaking techniques makes great tasty raspberry and cherry styles with more flesh than many other parts of Tasmania but still quite light to medium bodied. There is an honesty to the styles. With producers that lack experience with the variety the wines tend to be light easy but lacking in character.

Of coarse the climate is ideally suited to Sparkling wine with the methode traditionalle technique, as the chardonnay and pinot noir keep their acidity. This is the case all over Tasmania but in the Tamar the southern area is particularly suitable.

Riesling can be interesting and delicate more minerally and less citrus like the Clare, but may have an excess of acidity when young. with age they tend to come into their own.

Pinot Gris is probably the most commercially viable variety with yields and growing conditions. And when done well can have a beautiful drinkability, but unfortunately as a style not many will set the world on fire.

What struggles

Cabernet Sauvignon will struggle in general and anyone persisting with this grape here you have to ask why?

Having said that the one exception I found was at Velo wines where the poorer soils and fastidious vineyard management produced a very nice varietal cabernet. I would suggest that maybe this is a much warmer site and combined with the poorer soils  may also assist in it's success.

Surprises

Shiraz in general does not lose enough acidity to be considered viable in most of the Tamar looking green and harsh. But the warmer sites close to water have all shown that great shiraz is indeed possible in Tasmania particularly in a warmer year (here and possibly in the upper Derwent and Lower Coal River Valley). with some having white to black pepper red to black fruits and a European like elegance to the wines.

Activities

 Penguin spotting:

 If you wander up to Low Head you can visit the nests and resting spots of the local Penguin Population. Their are also untouched sites that can be visited all along the Northern Tasmanian Coastline to see these fascinating critters.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/low-head-historic-site

Gorge Hiking: 

Cataract Gorge is a must visit. Hike up to the swimming pool or adventure along the winding path right through the Cataract Gorge Reserve and the Trevallyn Nature Recreation Area, located nice and close to the city of Launceston in Tasmania.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/trevallyn-nature-recreation-area

Platypus : 

Platypus House at Beauty Point provides a great spot to check out these unique creatures . Great if you have kids on board. There is also a nice breakfast spot slightly further north where you can look out on the bay.

https://platypushouse.com.au/

Seahorse :

 Right next door to Platypus House Seahorse World gives you an up close experience with these tiny delicate marine animals.

https://seahorseworld.com.au/

Zoo:

Tasmania Zoo has a wild variety of animals to discover, probably the most interesting being the Tasmanian Devils and the Meercat population.

https://tasmaniazoo.com.au/

Hikes:

Ben Lomond:

Climbing up Jacobs ladder this landscape seems unique to this small part of Tasmania with its Dolerite Cliffs. Climbing up to 1500m the climate cools considerably as you move into a cloud covered alpine environment. In winter the top of the mountain has a skiing available. In summer its a playground for hikers and mountain climbers.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/ben-lomond-national-park

A serene  hike through magnificent old tree ferns that culminates in the waterfalls at the top of the hike. You wander through the rainforest and get glimpses of the creek and moutain ranges through small gaps in the undergrowth.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/liffey-falls-state-reserve

Narawntapu National Park:

A world away on a beautiful stretch of beach looking out over the Bass Strait in the Northern Part of the Tamar region.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/narawntapu-national-park

Food Options

Stillwater: 

Situated just off the Bridge in the entrance to Cataract Gorge. Some of the best food in Launceston. I had great coffee and some poached eggs for breakfast.

https://www.stillwater.com.au/

Smell

Fern Gullies near Launceston like a mini Liffey Falls at Notley Gorge

https://www.discovertasmania.com.au/things-to-do/nature-and-wildlife/notleyferngorge

See

Brady's Lookout in Tamar has gorgeous vistas looking north as the Tamar river snakes its way north towards the Bass Strait.

https://goo.gl/maps/JF4o6UfrQNS1wMET9

:Eddy flows of the Tamar River.

 If you get up before sunrise or in the early hours of the morning and sit around or near the Batman Bridge you can watch the whirlpool eddies and flow of the Tamar River. In the early morning light this becomes a peaceful yet visually breath taking experience.

https://goo.gl/maps/Aow49va7cG7UwN578

Padymelons around the Bonnie Beach Road and other parts of Kayena

VISIT

Taste 

Oysters from all over Tasmania

Raspberries and other delights from the berry farm in Hillwood.

https://www.hillwoodberries.com.au/

Wine bar

Havilah a cool spot amongst some other eateries across from Princes Square in Launceston.

https://havilahwine.com.au/

Other Options:

# James Boags Brewery Tours 

https://www.jamesboag.com.au/

# Local Macaques Population while strolling through the Botanic Gardens

# Rosvears Pub looking out on the Tamar

https://rosevearshotel.com.au/history

# Pinot Noir Heaven

https://www.pinotshop.com/

What makes a great cellar door?

Is it the views, the food , the wine , the people the design or architecture the history the sense of place, the fun experience, the company? Having spent ten weeks in Tasmania assisting during vintage at Tamar Ridge I was able to get to many of the Cellar Doors and Wineries in the Tamar, Pipers, East Coast, Huon Valley , Coal River Valley and the Derwent valley. Below are some of my favourites.

 1/ East Coast Tasmania -

 The east coast is a popular destination on the way to Freycinet National Park where the famous Wineglass Bay is on everyone's Instagram bucket list. From north to south a great spot for surfers when its working, a scenic drive with views across the water to Freycinet National Park and further north around St Helens lie some stunning bays, the wineries are an added bonus.   

                                Off The Beaten Track 

                                                                    a/ Boomer Creek (views/wine/chilled ambience)- 

With views looking out over south of Coles Bay across to Freycinet National Park , the wines are of good quality particularly the riesling and they have little outdoor day beds, food platters and chilled tunes to laze the day away. Off the beaten track being further south than many of the other wineries it is definitely worth the detour.

https://boomercreekvineyard.com.au/

                             BEST VIEWS

                                                      b/ Devils Corner (views/food/ many wine styles) 

Spectacular views across Coles bay , Pizza for the kids coffee for the adults or some seafood to go with the fresh rieslings on offer. You can try varying tasting panels of wine from entry level wines through to the Mt Amos a seriously good Pinot Noir.

https://www.devilscorner.com.au/                        

             BEST SMALL WINERY EXPERIENCE 

                                                                                            c/ Springvale (Historic/ Family Run/ Wines/ Ambience) -

 As you drive past the vineyards and the winery you come to the old historic stables built in 1842, that they have turned into a cellar door. Inside it has a warmth and cosy ambience with the wine quality being of an exceptional standard in all the styles particularly the Chardonnays.

https://www.springvalewines.com/               

         TOURIST  SITE SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

                                                                                            d/ Iron House (Views/Food/Beer/Whisky /Wine) – 

This venue in the White sands resort is more about the views less about the wines. The restaurant was very busy when I was there. A tourist offering that has there own brewery / vineyard/ Cellar Door & Distillery. Sits on the southern point of McIntyres Beach with beautiful views across the water.

https://www.ironhouse.com.au/

2/ Pipers Region-

This region is further north and east of the Tamar Valley proper. Its a tad cooler and later in ripening than the northern Tamar.

                                 TOP CHOICE IN TASMANIA 

                                             a/ Clover Hill (views/wines/ambience/architecture) -

 Built on top of a ridge with views north towards the Bass Strait you look over the vineyards that scamper down the steep ridge. The sparkling wines that they specialise in are of a very high quality particularly the late discourged vintage 2006. With some of the packaged deals definitely a more luxurious experience. The design and architecture of the building a modern gem. A must visit!!!

https://cloverhillwines.com.au/

                                   Close second on best Small Winery Experience 

                                                                        b/ Sinapius (wines, cosy friendly, nice outlook) – 

Sinapius has a great eclectic range of wines that are all worthy of a mention I particularly liked the Gruner and the Esme Gamay but they also do Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and some unusual white blends. Sit out on the deck of the cellar door to take in views of the vineyard and the stray rooster.

https://sinapius.com.au/

                                  MOST INFORMATIVE 

                                                                      c/ Bay of Fires (wines/information/history)- 

A big expansive cellar door when you are taken through all facets of the wine making process (be prepared). The wine quality is exceptional particularly the Arras sparklings, I found their Pinot Noir from Coal River Valley Fruit to be fleshy and a pleasure to drink. The fruit is sourced from all over Tasmania to make the many wine styles available.

https://www.bayoffireswines.com.au/

3/ Tamar Valley

The engine room of the Tasmanian wine industry where reliable high quality wines are made due to the influence of the Tamar River. The closer the vineyards to the water the milder the day and night temperatures and the more reliable and earlier the ripening. With some sub regions highly suited to grapevines (ie: Rosevears).

                                                               a/ Tamar Ridge (views,wines,food) - 

I was working at the winery further north but the Cellar Door is on a ridge in the Rosevears sub region of Tamar just north of Launceston. This is a beautiful area with sloping vineyards leading down to the water. Probably one of the first places in Tasmania to ripen their fruit. The cellar door lies atop of the ridge with great views of the river. Wines available include Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sparklings and of course Pinot Noir. I really enjoyed the Pirie Vintage Sparkling Rose. Food is available a great spot to eat before exploring the other parts of the Tamar.

https://www.tamarridge.com.au/cellardoor/

Drop next door to Turners Stillhouse for their Distillers Release Three Cuts gin.

https://turnerstillhouse.com/

                                     BEST NATURAL WINE 

                                                                   b/ Swinging Gate (food/natural wines/ homely feel) – 

The whole family is out helping serve people as they serve up woodfired pizza and take you through their wines both natural (pet Nat, Orange) and regular wines. I was a fan of their fuller style Pinot Noir and the Red amarone made from Cabernet and Pinot that will appeal to people who want something richer.

https://swinginggatewines.com.au/

                                                                     c/ Josef Chromy (gardens/restaurant/views/wines) – 

Situated in the southern Tamar south of Launceston the whole experience is professionally done. You can wander the picturesque gardens around the dam(lake), taste through some wines or eat next door in the agfg rated restaurant. The wines were all of good quality but the Josef Chromy Chardonnay was truly exceptional. They also have a Zweigelt (red grape) originally from Austria that has a bit more flesh than the Pinot Noirs, definitely worth tasting.

https://josefchromy.com.au/

4/ Coal River Valley

This tends to be one of the dryer parts of the Tasmanian Isle with varying exposures and soils. Closer to the estuary the vineyards can touch the water but as you go further north the vineyards start to climb to the slopes to no doubt avoid the frost risk and increase the sun exposure in the early morning facing generally easterly.

                                               No.2 Choice in Tasmania

                                                                                             a/ POOLEYS -

Pooley’s has their Winery in the built up area of Cambridge on your way to the airport. But the cellar door is a world away in the Richmond area where one of their vineyards is situated. Here an old Georgian built homestead creates a grand entrance where out the back in the Coach House you are treated to a selection of wines and pizza or other appetizers on the menu.

This is definitely in the top two or three must visit cellar doors in Tasmania.

https://www.pooleywines.com.au/

                                                           No.3 Choice 

                                                                          b/ GLAETZER-DIXON  -

Not Strictly in the Coal River Valley but in Hobart itself Glaetzer-Dixon gets a lot of their fruit from the Coal River and parts of the Upper Derwent & Tamar.

This is an immersive experience from a winemaker making his own path. More structural the wines are truly interesting coming from his bomb shelter like winery. His long ferment Pinot Noirs and Rieslings set him apart from many other wineries in the region. A must visit for wine interested types not really for tourist types. https://www.gdfwinemakers.com/

                             c/ On the southern end there are several little family operations that are worth a visit. 

From the historical Craigow ( https://www.craigow.com.au/) to the steep views from Coal Valley Vineyard (https://www.coalvalley.com.au/) even further north are the more relaxed expansive views of Nocton ( https://www.noctonwine.com.au/) with their riper chardonnay style . But the more unique of these was at Riversdale. What I can only describe as a time warp into the seventies the views towards the estuary where some oyster farms can be seen is beautiful as well as the nicely kept gardens and their Chardonnay and the Shiraz wines. The cellar door furnishings reminded me of some hybrid of Italian meets French meets timber complete with a cardboard cut out of Elvis. Most unusual.

https://riversdaleestate.com.au/

4/The Derwent Valley

Only two Cellar Doors in the lower Derwent Stefano Lubiana & Derwent Estate. If you don’t include Moorilla Estate. With Meadowbank having only a vineyard in the upper Derwent. As much as I liked the wines in Stefanos I much preferred the low key approach of Derwent Estate in the old Rathbone Cottage playing nice tunes and relaxed views. To be fair Stefano was setting up for a wedding when I visited.

https://www.slw.com.au/

https://www.derwentestate.com.au/

The Upper Derwent is truly magnificent passing through hop country to the expansive vineyards a shame that Meadowbank doesn’t have a cellar door and Kinvarra was also very picturesque but not open for a tasting.

https://www.kinvarraestate.com/

https://www.meadowbank.com.au/

5/The Huon Valley

Travelling further south the wines and winding roads of the Huon Valley along with the apples and ciders at Willie Smiths (https://www.williesmiths.com.au/apple-shed/) some great wines in a challenging evironment and beautiful views around every corner to the fun little village of Cygnet. I was lucky enough to visit a few small boutique producers (will cover elsewhere) but only several cellar doors were open to the public at the time

                                A/ Kate Hill wines-

Kate Hill was a nice quaint little celler door on top of the hill surrounded by vineyards. They have had a few tough years with frost and fires but I still tried some nice wines. The cellar door host was Windsor Dobbin a local wine writer. A mate I worked with in California is now helping out in the winery. https://www.katehillwines.com.au/

                                                  2nd Best Views 

                                                                             B/ Mewstone Vineyards- 

 Mewstone has one of the most picturesque cellar door sitting on the ridge looking out at the water towards Bruny Island. The exposure must be challanging for ripening grapes but they also source fruit from other parts of Tasmania. Here they are trying many different styles and experiments with the wines. A beautiful spot.

https://www.mewstonewines.com.au/about-us

                                                                                    c/ Tinderbox Vineyards

Not Strictly in the Huon more in the d’Entrecasteaux Channel but a beautiful little spot nestle between two ridges right by the water just above the northern tip of Bruny Island. Open by appointment but truly off the radar of most travellers.

6/The North West

a/ Ghost Rock

A very professional setup with views out to the north. Wines from different techniques and good quality. Exposed to the cooler breezes it is very different to La Villa in style. 

https://www.ghostrock.com.au/

b/ La Villa Wines 

A beautifully Regal Building on the flats near the a large estuary from the Mersey River. The wines are surprisingly ripe considering Tasmanias climate but due no doubt from the protection from the ocean breezes and close proximity to a large body of warmer water and the lighter soils  of their vineyards. A delightful décor welcoming owner and well made wines topped off with the offer to take some fresh apples off the tree out front. When you arrive the bell tower sounds. Great Experience.

https://www.lavillawines.com.au/

c/ Lake Barrington Wines : 

A great selection of wines I was able to try at the Tasmanian Wine Festival. Did not get to visit but looks delightful. The owner was very knowledgable. Had wonderful Chardonnay and a tasty Dornfelder a red variety more resistant to the wet weather that can stifle the NW region in some years.

https://www.lakebarringtonestate.com.au/

With so many microclimates , great seafood/cheese/whiskey/wine and burgeoning regions. Their really is something for everyone.

Back in the 1960's and 70's the famous region of Chianti in Central Tuscany was known for the Fiasco a large (1.5-6 litres) bottle in a basket of vin da tavola (wine for the table) used for the lunchtime quaffer. As a result the region became famous for easy drinking uncomplicated wine. After drinking a whole bottle a Fiasco was likely.

From the 1970's a more progressive attitude began to filter into the region, from the urban wealthy seeking a change,where modern approaches took hold. Now it still has these quaffers but has so much more to offer the wine curious traveller.

There are few wine regions in the world that encapsulate everything great about wine. The history the culture the people the wine the food the landscape, the romance and ultimately the dramatic beauty of the place.

One region that rises above them all TUSCANY. It's rolling landscape of vineyards olive groves and country lanes straddled by cypress pines, the historic hilltop medieval towns still being lived in today like forts above the valley’s. The friendly and animated local Tuscan people who really know how to enjoy life and the local cuisine it's 'Molto delizioso ' . If you have ever visited the region it is hard not to fall in love with the place. If you live somewhere better I would love to know where.

It really does live up to the hype.

The Region

Tuscany's rolling hills and varied landscape shares visual surprises for all who travel through the region.With many sites from Florence to Montalcino, Livorno to Arezzo.

There are over twenty five thousand places in Tuscany making wine , with nearly every other hill being a winery ,vineyard or an olive grove. To try and get your head around the wine from every corner of the region would take a lifetime.

Getting There

It pays to have your own transport or someone who can show you around if you want to truly explore Tuscany. There are options for the budget traveller but you are limited to places closer to Siena and Florence. The best bits of Tuscany are either between the two cities or in the south beyond the reach of any public transport or shuttle service. An easy way to get there if flyiing into Rome is on the fast train to Florence. Once in Florence you can venture south to some local stops all the way to Siena on a local train or rent a car and explore the area outside it's reach.

INLAND TUSCANY

Chianti Classico : This is the heart of the region centred between the two historical rival Cities of Siena and Florence. The traditional towns of Radda,Greve,Castellina and Gaiole being the center of what makes the region so good. Look for the GALLO NERO (black rooster) on the bottle to deliniate true Chianti Classico. Radda and Gaiole usually showing more elegance and Greve and Castellina more body and fullness.

Chianti : Everything outside the Chianti Classico region but inland is Chianti with some sub regions attached like :

Montalbano:

A highly regarded region west of Florence that lives in the shadow of the Carmignano area within it's borders. Here they make good quality sangiovese and caniolo blends

Rufina:

Here the Sangiovese and other varieties ripen later due to the elevation east from Florence giving them a certain elegance.

Colli Fiorentini :

Lies in the hills around Florence in a warmer subregion here generally the more simpler wines are produced.

Colli Senesi:

These are the hills close to Siena, and up to San Gimignano lying outside of Chanti Classico being it's South westerly neighbour,but also include Montalcino and Montepulciano so the styles can vary quite a bit. From concentrated to 'vin de tavola'.

Here I was lucky enough to help during vintage at a family winery and vineyard. Lower and slightly warmer than Chianti Classico on more sandier soils. The vineyards starting on the top of the hills and dipping into the ravines of forest in between hills. The variability of the grapes from top to bottom is quite dramatic due to the dryer soils at height and moist heavier soils closer to the forests. Sangiovese, Cillegiolo, Caniolo, Colorino, Mammolo, Malvasia, Trebbiano toscana and Chardonnay Merlot and Cabernet were grown here.

Colli Aretini,

Close to Arezzo on the eastern and higher altitude sites where more moisture eventuates means the wines tend to be lighter and more elegant .

Carmignano:

A subregion of Montalbano where 2 year old barrel aged sangiovese blends have traditionally been highly regarded.

Brunello di Montalcino:

This is the celebrity area of Tuscany both in reputation and in Price.

Discovered by the International Brigade you will find celebrities or cashed up merchant bankers from all corners of the globe trying to recreate a vision they have of what Tuscany is about. Either in owning a vineyard or winery or staying in some of the amazing local accommodation. This southern region is slightly warmer and considerably dryer than more central sections of Tuscany. And this together with the soils mean that lower yields give more concentration and extract.With the local clone of Brunello gaining a solid reputation for quality based on the original producer Biondi-Santi. Soils and style vary considerably across the hills from north facing to south facing. With one producer creating the most eclectic and dense vineyard I am ever likely to see. Planted like a vine nursury. The wines are based mostly on the Sangiovese 'superclone' Brunello and tend to be big extractive heavily oaked wines that need considerable time to soften and come into balance but once they do they have a real charm. This style is more international in design to attract the wine writers and American palates that like to see oak and alcohol. Elegance is not a word that comes to mind though the odd producer manages to get savoury elements when made in a more traditional manner.

Vin Nobile Montepulciano:

This is an adjoining town on a hill slightly east of Montalcino these too are big extractive sangiovese based on the 'Prugnolo gentile 'clone. A bit more sauvory but still on the riper end.

San Gimignano:

This towered fortified town is a favourite for most tourists. And has that discovered feel about it. Picturesque and postcard friendly I would gaze west daily during vintage to see the towers of San Gimignano. The surrounding hills have the white grape Vernaccia growing. It makes a light fresh easy drinking white with floral hints and a touch of welcome bitterness when done well, or oxidised nuttiness when done in a tradtional manner. Some producers are using new oak which for me just gets in the way.

COASTAL

Lucca:

The beautiful hills surrounding Lucca here the Sangiovese dominates...at the.foot of the Apennine Mountains. Whites are made from the traditional trebbiano and malvasia with other more international varieties also allowed (sauvignon blanc,vermentino, greco and chardonnay).

Bolgheri: at the foothills of the Metallifere in the Provence of Livorno here Bordeaux blends like Sassicaia have thrived due in part to the mild but warm and dry climate with some sea breezes to cool the vines. This IGT wine is very highly regarded with up to 26 months in barrel. Other wines that have DOCG status share similarities in composition in both red and whites of other parts of Livorno and Grossetto. The straight Merlots can be very good.

Pisa:

Chianti Colline Pisane would be warmer being closer to the coast but with milder day temperatures.Lighter softer wines seem to be the norm, but with so many factors creating the wine styles here there are sure to be the odd gem.

Maremma:..in the Grosseto Coastal area of south west Tuscany the wines have many varieties allowed in them.

White: Ansonica,Chardonnay ,Grechetto, Sauvignon blanc, Trebbiano, Vermentino, Viognier

and Red: Alicante (Grenache), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,Caniolo , Ciliegiolo., Sangiovese,Syrah

The straight Ansonica can be quite interesting from the southern Grossetto area.

HISTORY

It is from this part of the world that the grapevine was spread throughout Europe.

The region owes much of it's early wine history to the Etruscans it was from their propagation of the vine taken up later by the Romans that began grape growing in the region. The Romans then spread it far and wide and advanced the skills and trade of wine and wine making. After the fall of the Roman Empire the re-emergence of the industry occurred mainly as wine merchants and traders in wine in the 13^th and 14^th centuries. It wasn't until the 19^th century that the industry gathered momentum where higher quality was sought. Then in the 1970's the yields and the winemaking became more aligned with what are now more modern international standards.

The renaissance art and the grape are uniquely alligned as major silk merchants and bankers of Florence would move into winemaking like the Antinori and Frescaboldi families. These merchants had and still have the connections and the capital to move wine both domestically and internationally. With many small producers selling their wine in bulk to these producers.

So in a good year like 2015 their mid end wines can be of very high quality.

The quality renaisance of the region came later in 1971, with the launch of Tignanello one of the first SuperTuscans. A blend of Cabernets and Sangiovese with the smaller barriques being used.

CLIMATE

Tuscany has a varied climate and to try to generalise can be dangerous. For the rolling hills the elevation the temperatures and the rainfall changes across the region.

But from the Table below it can be said that it gets drier as you head towards the coast or further south, that the higher elevated areas are considerably cooler and that the region generally has very warm subtropical summers. The diurnal range is also moderated by the ocean influences particularly around Livorno.

SOILS

The soils vary considerably across Tuscany and to hone in on one soil would be a mistake.

So I can give a basic rundown of the soils from some sub regions.

Chianti Classico: Two most famous soils are the

:Galestro (Rocky, schistous clay soil commonly found in most of Tuscany’s best vineyards) a

:Alberese (A compact clay and limestone found in the Chianti region) soils.

Chianti Colli Senesi Monte morli: mainly sandy clay soils.

Montalcino: limestone, clay, schist, volcanic soil and Galestro

WINERIES

The region has so many options that limiting yourself to what some wine writer recommends means that you miss out on some wonderful wines. Around 25000 wineries inhabit Tuscany from Traditional producers , bulk producers , modern artisans and the well known international merchants. A lot of wines may not even be seen out of Italy but can be of a very high quality.

Three wineries I really liked were Dievole, Ormanni and Isole de Olena. The last also had a very fruit driven modern Chardonnay.

What can you expect:

• Big extracted fruit and oak style from Montacino and Montepulciano based prodominately on Sangiovese with some having Caniolo to soften the wines. These wines are firm structured styles that need some time in bottle to soften. They are also popular internationally, so they usually have a higher price. Although much is made of the Brunello and Prugnolo gentile clones in these regions. I think the resultant wines are more about the dryer lower yielding vineyards. As the amount of Sangiovese clones in Tuscany is prodigious and like Grenache or Pinot Noir the quality can vary quite considerably based on the site and growing conditions.

  

• Chianti Classico : This is from the central section between Siena and Florence. The wines are softer from the use of Caniolo, Cieligolo, Trebbiano Toscana and Malvasia Bianca. Colorino and Mammolo are also used but have more structure with the colorino having red flesh and high acidity that can help beef up the wines. Based again mainly on Sangiovese the wines are sometimes co-fermented and traditionally stored in bottes ( a larger volume old oak barrel that imparts oxygen slowly but without the new oak character) .The size of these vessels means the wines maintain an element of freshness provided the barrels have been looked after. The wines have an elegance and savoury edge and a soft drinkabilty that goes well with the local proscuitto,tomatoes and buffalo mozerella. When done well they are easy drinking savoury cherry flavoured yet fresh. When done badly they taste of water or a bland acid tannin mixer. The prices vary but generally if you find a good one they are the best value in Tuscany.

  

• Chianti Classico Reserva: these wines have more depth than the basic Chianti's are higher in price and usually have more new oak influences. They are generally richer but still with a savoury cherry and structural elegance. The best of them are sublime examples of what Sangiovese and partners are capable of if the oak is not overdone. And for me are the best examples of Tuscany unadulterated by international influences. Try one from a Traditional producer and compare it with a modern producer and you will see the variance based on oak. I find the traditional style more attractive.

• IGT These wines can be anything from what was termed supertuscans where Cabernet and /or Merlot may play a major role or a nasty blend of simple wine that may not even be from Tuscany. There is no way of telling the difference except to look for a fancy bottle with Merlot or Cabernet blended with sangiovese that has a higher price. The Super Tuscans can be superb but generally have a very modern sweet fruit and oak mix that appeals to the . international palate. The Merlot in Tuscany can be exceptional so it is definitely worth seeking out. With wonderful sweet mulberry fruit. Tignanello and Sassicaia are the famous examples of the Super Tuscan Style.

• Grand Reserva: This is a step above the chianti Classico reserva usually a more modern style fruit and oak are generally more intense still with some acid drive from the sangiovese but rounder and fuller.

• Grand Selectione: These wines are typically the best parcels and most concentrated styles where oak is used in combination with the fruit. When done well it can be a focused concentrated experience with the wines handling the new oak influences. Richer more modern but still great drinking expect to pay a higher price for the best Sangiovese can offer if done well.

Winemaking

The winemaking techniques vary as much as the hillsides but don't be mistaken there are modern well travelled producers down to the traditional maker that was mentored by his father. Sangiovese when fermented can be an acid tannin astringent monster so a lot of the techniques used are to soften the wine. From using oxygen in the ferment some will drain and splash and return the juice over the top of the ferment others will use Micro-oxygenation by passing fine bubbles of oxygen through the wine both during and post ferment. Another technique that works well in the traditional manner is the co fermentation of the Sangiovese with lighter bodied grape varieties this can work well depending on what is used with Caniolo and Cielligolo working well and more aromatic lighter styles result from using Malvasia or Trebianno Toscana.

FOOD MATCH

Tuscan food is all about simply prepared great produce , fresh and ripe.

From the ripe tomatoes fresh basil great local olive oil zucchinni flowers salads and of course the cheese from Pecorino to my favourite Buffalo Mozerella. Matching wine and food really is not a problem here for the they have always gone hand in hand.

AGRITOURISME 

One thing that the region has excelled in is the agritourism there are villas infinity pools on site luxury accommodation in the vineyards and olive groves throughout the region. If you are a celebrity and you want to stay in the highest regarded accommodation there is …...........................

or a modest but cosy cottage on a vineyard and winery there are options near and around both Siena and Florence where they can shuttle you too and from the cities.All ranges all walks of life from budget to ultimate luxury.

Having been to the land of Julius Caesar, Marcus  Aurelius and Nero once before you realise that Italy holds a certain charm that makes you want to return. I sealed my fate when throwing a coin into the Trevi fountain, I was back for more. Vittorio an Italian or more accurately a Tuscan had done a vintage with me in the Yarra Valley and he invited me to his families property for the Tuscan Vintage.

Stumbling off the train in Florence I am surrounded by all manner of tourist. This is peak season in Tuscany and the buzz and hum at the station is particularly acute. Waiting for him to taxi me from the station I inadvertently begin people watching hoping to see a familiar face, From the immaculately dressed European well to do ready to be whisked off to a palatial villa on a postcard hillside in Chianti.To the Gypsy girl doing the well tread circuit of small change in the vending machines and looking for a careless traveler to give her an opportunity to be able to feed herself at the end of the day. This is the starting point for many an adventure with mine about to begin.

Seeing the welcoming face of Vittorio and his jovial manner "Bonjourno, andiamo!!!".We head south through the undulating country to somewhere between Siena and Florence right in the heart of Tuscany and Chianti. Traversing towards his home on every hill lie vineyards and olive groves with the familiar cypress trees and ancient stone villas with terracotta roof tiles straight out of a movie. The are over twenty five thousand wineries in Tuscany alone on every hill small families right through to large merchants make wine and olive oil for sale.

We arrive at Poggibonsi and then climb above the town to Montemorli a small hill village where the Vittorio and his family the Conforti's produce their wine and olive oil for over four generations. The historic hillside has postcard vista whichever way you care to look. 

That night I share a meal with the whole family . Georgio and his whole family Florella his wife and the three brothers, Carlo, Vittorio , Guido and Carlos wife and son.  

# The family

Seven generations of Conforti have worked at Montemorli and the work ethic and friendliness of the Conforti family is to be admired.

I was working in the cellar with the patriarch Georgio where a chalk board with the Italian and equivalent english word were written so we could attempt to communicate. Vittorio Guido and Carlo would help with picking and then in the cellar while Carlo  would also run his own organic vegetable farm on the property. The Matriarch Florella would keep everyone in line and cook the most delicious local cuisine. Doing many regional dishes for my benefit. The whole family lived on the property.

# the vineyard

Sitting above the town of Poggibonsi you look west to San Gimignano south is Siena and east is the Chianti Classico areas closest is the Castellina sub region. The vineyard is a high trellised patchwork of mainly Sangiovese with supporting varieties of Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Colorino Mammolo and some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the reds and Trebbiano Toscana and Malvasia Bianca in the whites. From the top of the hills that sink into the forests crevasse between hills the top of the vineyard is dryer than the lower sections near the forests. This creates a looser bunch of Sangiovese on the dryer top areas and a tighter bunch on the lower sections.

# the winery

A small compact winery and crushing facility houses a remarkable volume of wine. In this small space they can do up to 200 tonne through the winery with the 15-20 tonne fermentation vessels made of concrete and a narrow tiled terracotta floor for work space.

# the region

Chianti colli Senesi Encompasses a Large area that is by no means consistent across the region the vineyards typically lie on hills at 200 to 400m above sea level so are typically a bit warmer than the Chianti Classico region that has higher altitudes. The soil is a clay dominant grey to orange soil that becomes heavier and less suitable the lower down towards the valley you go.

# the wine styles

Like all of Chianti Sangiovese dominates the scenery and is softened by the other varieties. On it's own sangiovese straight off press has a astringency that is excessive due to both the acidity and the tannin structure of the wine. This is soften and tamed in a number of ways.

                                 1/ firstly during fermentation all wines are drained and returned into a small tub that helps introduce some air for a more advantageous environment for the yeasts and as a softener for the tannins.

                                 2/ Secondly some co-fermentation is utilized to bring more aromatics and mildness to the palate with the likes of Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo.

                                 3/ Thirdly the likes of Trebbiano Toscana and malvasie Bianca are co-fermented and/or blended to give the wine a fresher softer element.

                                 4/ Oak maturation in larger bottes maintains some freshness but softens the tannins in the wine with time.

The co-fermentation works surprisingly well in bringing a lifted aroma and softness to the mainly Sangiovese blend.

As such the wines from this sub region tend to be easier to drink younger than some of the tighter less friendly wines from parts of Chianti. The traditional blends are still well thought of and admired compared to the structural oaked styles made from 100% Sangiovese in other parts of the region. The traditional style is all about 'Vino Da Tavolo" wine for the table. Wines to be enjoyed with the wonderful food and cheese on offer.

They also make a VIN SANTO this is a traditional style where the grapes mainly trebbiano and malvasia are dried on racks in a warm loft above the cellar. The grapes crushed and pressed off to ferment in barrel the ensuing white wine is madeirised and can be sweet but tradtionally is more savoury with an element of sweetness. The locals dip their biscotti in the wine.

# the olives

After the vintage has finished the olives are ready to pick in late October. The local olive oil is as old as the hills they are grown on. A vital ingredient to the tomato and basil with buffalo mozzarella and prosciutto. The local coops take the olives and return them to the growers as olive oil.

# activities

-Enduro riding below the family winery,

 -Truffle hunting in Marche, 

-Chestnet Festival on the Tuscany Coast,

- Local Wednesday and Saturday Markets in Poggibonsi for fresh organic produce from Montemorli or some other local fresh produce.

-Check out the Crystal Glass makers in the next hillside town of  Colle di Val d'Elsa a pleasant walk along the old railway track now a bike path.

- Visit the winery and the Pizzeria at Montemorli

-Check out the local wine festivals like the Vino al Vino in Panzano in the heart of Greve Chianti Classico

-Visit Montalcino and Montepulciano south of Siena for bigger more structured, more oak defined Sangiovese

# San Gimignano

Towering above the hills west of Montemorli is San Gimignano a tourist town but one that was a key allied stronghold during the 2nd World War. It was on the Montemorli hill that Georgio shares a story of a German Commander dying in mortar exchange from Montimorli to San Gimignano. The high vantage point in the region has exceptional vistas to the east and surrounds to admire the rolling hillsides and picturesque farms olive groves and vineyards. The white Vernacchia grape is grown here with some fresh citrus blossom and nutty styled examples available.

# Siena 

We got to visit Siena a few times. An interesting wealthy hillside fortified town that has sweeping tree lined streets as you enter on the southern side. The rivalry with Florence is most evident in the Duomo (cathedral) being unfinished. The Oenoteca under the old fortress has some great wines to taste from all over Italy not just Tuscany. Try the white Ansonica. Siena has much to offer in food wine historic buildings and beautiful scenery. It has the oldest still existing Bank in the world, and the Sienese do dress well.

# the food

All of Italy has something to offer. What Tuscany does well is simple produce grown locally and picked at its optimum. Cured ham, prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella, ripe tomatoes, fresh basil their own olive oil, zucchini flowers, all kinds of mushrooms and the rest.

Put together it just tastes so delicious. And the traditional wines are made to match. 

# departure

Having helped with the vintage it was time to leave. I was treated like another brother and would like to thank the Conforti's for their generosity if they happen to read this.. A truly memorable time. From going to a beer tavern in a 12th century abbey. To walking along the ridges of the vineyards in the evenings. And visiting other winemakers in Chianti Classico and Montalcino. To just sharing the lunches made by Florella and siesta.

Alla prossima 

In the past many wine books have been written about the regions around the world where grapes are grown and thrive for the production of wine. From the days when Winkler separated the regions by heat degree days and through to growing degree days and ripening temperature suggested by Gladstone. 

Having worked all over the world to say one particular climate is more suited to a grape variety than another ignores the complexities of wine. For at every stage their are so many different combinations and possibilities that to say region A makes better wine than region B with a variety is sometimes more about marketing than actualities.

What can be said, that if your starting template for high quality wine is balanced fruit , sugar, acid and ripe tannin accumulation low disease and freshness. Then comparing your region , or ideally your site, with different regions and sites around the world can give an indication into what will grow well. In some regions there may be many varieties that grow well in others there may be a few based on limiting factors like temperature, rainfall and suitable sites.

So where do you start?

1/Find out where the closest or most representative climate station in your region is located and obtain the information from the latest 30 year period (1981-2010).

Steer clear of any major city information as invariably they tend to be heat sinks and will have a higher temperature than surrounding farmland.

2/ From this data get the following figures:

     A/    Heat degree days latitude adjusted :

           # this is the mean temperatures of the seven months of the growing season (Oct-Apr or Apr-Oct) minus ten degrees

           # then multiplied by a day length factor (See Gladstones) above and below 40 degrees latitude (40 degrees being one)

           #  then multiply each monthly figure buy the days of the month 

           #  add the monthly figures together to get HDD latitude adjusted

    B/     Mean temperature of the warmest month

           # this will tend to be mid summer unless you are in a strongly maritime region where sometimes late summer will be warmer.

           # This is useful in ranking the apex heat load of the region in comparison to other regions

    C/    Maximum Temperature of the warmest month

            # This is important in differentiating between a milder acting climate and a more extreme one with similar mean temperatures. The vines can 'shut down' in higher temperatures typically above 35 degrees compared to being actively photosynthesizing at lower temperatures particularly if their is low water availablility. 

            # higher temperatures will require more moisture demand and typically regions with higher maximums to mean temperatures have much lower relative humidities so are more likely to suffer damaging stress unless soil is a mitigating factor.

            # Colour development can also be delayed in the berry skins with higher temperatures.

     D/   Average growing season rainfall (mm)

            # the mean rainfall is the most readily available figure for comparison

             # however the median rainfall is the better indicator of moisture status

             # regions with similar rainfall will more than likely have similar disease pressure if not accounting for wind factors

3/  Collate these figures together and compare it to the table below. 

            #The HDD figure is more involved but is critical in placing your region in the right heat zone (including daylength).    

            # Use the HDD as Temperature (HDD / no. of days in the season plus 10)  match the regions within 1 degree

             # match regions within 1 degree of your region for MTWM and Maximum temperature of the warmest month     

              # Match regions within 100mm of rainfall to your region

              # Regions with three to four matches are similar

4/ The closest matching regions to yours will be a useful starting point on what is suitable to grow in your region.

       # The first three indices A, B and C are more critical in regards to wine style being about temperature, but D (rainfall) is important in regards to disease pressure and can be useful in deciding what soils are appropriate for what varieties.

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