Pinot Noir is a notoriously fickle grape. With typically lower colour and tannin due to thinner skins than many other well known red grape varieties. 

The variety first emerged from the history books back in 1375 when not long after Philip the Bold the Duke of Burgundy banned the Gamay grape from Burgundy in favour of Pinot Noir. But it is said to have been growing in the region some 2000 years ago when the Romans arrived.

People have made it their noble quest in making great pinot noir having tasted it’s best self from a bottle of tasty burgundy in a good year.

It does not give generously when it comes to yield , has a tighter pine cone shaped like bunch that does not like wet weather so can rot easily. Can become flabby and boring if grown in too warm a climate and become just a soft red wine, or in too cooler a climate can be too aggressively bitter and tart due to the higher acidity and unripe tannins.

Ask 10 winemakers how to make Pinot Noir and they will give ten even 20 answers. So how does Tasmania stand up when it comes to Pinot Noir.

Pinot Noir has three styles as far as I can see ,

1/ There is the dry red soft easy uninteresting style that tends to be grown in warmer to hot regions they have alcohol on their side but would not be considered varietal pinot as its more about quaff-ability. They look more dry red that lacks any distinguishable pinot character except perhaps the lack of tannin.

2/ The more delicate red fruits and perfumed spice style: these tend to come from cooler regions don’t tend to have much flesh are more about bright acidity lifted perfume and fresh vibrant flavours. The wines may get more perfume and structure from cab mac and more weight and texture from barrel fermentation and maturation and some lees contact, possibly MLF in barrel. But the fruit spectrum is somewhat more delicate that the last style.

3/ When in a cool to mild regions the Pinot Grape can move into red fruits with a percentage of darker fruits. They tend to have more flesh and palate weight and can have much more structure. The alcohol levels are typically a little higher than the delicate style and the acidity marginally lower. But just like the delicate style the amount of structure and the flesh may depend on the winemakers philosophy of extraction, carbonic maceration % and the type of oak treatment. The tannins tend to be riper than in the cooler regions.

Tasmania on the whole falls into camp no.2 . There are a few exceptions with more fuller styles being produced in parts of the Coal River being one of the dryer warmer day cooler night type climates further north away from Hobart. And parts of the upper Derwent seem to get more body as well. Clones may help with more body and flesh coming from the Pommard , MV6 and 777 even 667 and more aromatics coming from the 114 & 115. Once the winemakers get some runs on the board with clonal familiarity more and more great pinots will come out of Tassie. As they have only just scratched the surface.

My Top Ten of Tassie that I tasted. Try saying that ten times after a few drinks.

 Their are many more to explore.

Bay Of Fires- Fruit sourced mostly from the Coal River Valley but with Derwent Valley and East Coast fruit this wine has much more flesh than many other Tassie examples. Rich fleshy yet still beautifully varietal with dark cherry plum and raspberries and a hint of strawberry. A great balance between flesh and bright flavours.

https://www.bayoffireswines.com.au/

Pressing Matters- Beautiful aromatic and lifted pretty red fruits the palate shows some darker cherry and flesh not as full as the Bay of Fires but just as interesting. (Stargazer is also one of the wines made by the same winemaker). These guys also make Riesling to die for if that's your thing.

https://www.pressingmatters.com.au/

Sailor Seeks Horse- From a warmer north facing site in the Huon Valley. A much more delicate style that also has a remarkable structure. The slow ripening on the vine combined with a wonderful selection of clones gives this wine a complexity that few could match. The wine will no doubt get pretty interesting and savoury as it ages. These guys will in future probably make the most interesting Pinot in Tassie. Providing the weather cooperates.

https://sailorseekshorse.com.au/sailor

Chatto-  Also from the Huon on a ridge behind Sailor Seeks Horse. Jimbo has a world of experience and his hands off approach is how many of the Tassie winemakers are making their Pinots. Here the wines are a true expression of the vineyards (other regions as well) they come from but beautifully balanced with no winemaking trickery getting in the way. As I've said before like Miles Davis you have to learn all the notes to know what not to play. He also is lucky enough to travel to Burgundy to make some wine there in the second half of the year. Not sure how Daisy feels about that.

https://www.chattowines.com/

Dawson & James- From the upper Derwent off older vines of the MV6 and Pommard clones. The soils are lighter in the Upper Derwent so unlike other areas of Tasmania their is a delicacy to the fruit coming from the soil. The wine finds a balance between texture and prettiness the older vines garnering a complexity and fullness despite the soil profile. Maybe due in part to these more fleshy full clones being used. They get a suppleness to their Pinot which is hard to master and no doubt speaks of the years of experience that Smokey and Tim have. And with Pinot Noir experience counts.

https://dawsonjames.com.au/

Springvale- East Coast estate fruit on red soils with a mixture of Pinot Clones. The wine has full honest straight forward raspberry and dark cherry flesh with a easy drinkability. The velvety nature of the wine and the round shape in the mouth make it a pleasure to drink.

https://www.springvalewines.com/2016-pinot-noir

Glatzer-Dixon- Structured and complex. A fish out of water in this line up being very different in style but made for the long haul. The fruit is picked on tannin ripeness rather than acidity and this gives Nick options with extraction you would not attempt on fruit that is not tannin ripe. The wines are much more layered and complex and when he combines all the techniques you get a more vinous wine and less tuitty fruity. Having worked at Domaine Albert Morot no doubt he has a feel for what is possible.

https://www.gdfwinemakers.com/

Handpicked- Surprisingly aromatic and pretty but with that Hallmark Tamar profile of Raspberry and cherry. The palate has a plush honesty yet still retains a brightness, with the noticeable oak giving the wine an attractive round creaminess.

https://handpickedwines.com.au/en/2019-auburn-road-vineyard-tasmania-pinot-noir

Mt Amos- Wines from the Tamar Ridge/Devils Corner stable are in complete juxtaposition to the Glatzer-Dixon model. Here Tom picks with acidity constantly in mind. Looking for bright aromatic and expressively red fruited styles. The wines I can attest age remarkably well having sampled way to many at the vintage break up party. The honesty of the style with both red  and hints of dark fruits  but with noticeable acidity. The wine is probably going to be at its best in a few years.

Pooley wines in the Richmond area of the Coal River Valley. The Butchers Hill had layers of interest and darker fruits and a element of new oak that may not please purests but helped structure the wine into something interesting.

https://www.pooleywines.com.au/wine/butcher-s-hill-pinot-noir/22835/

Under The Radar Wines

Upper Derwent: Future Perfect a pinot that has texture and prettiness all with an alcohol of 12.2 %

https://www.futureperfect.vision/

Huon-  Elsewhere (not so under the radar ) a pretty delicate  style slightly cooler than Chatto and Sailor seeks horse although being directly behind Chatto wines.

https://www.elsewherevineyard.com.au/new-products/2016-pinot-noir

Tamar- Swinging Gate fuller style of Pinot 

https://swinginggatewines.com.au/

East Coast- Boomer Creek great views great riesling and pinot.

https://boomercreekvineyard.com.au/

Coal River- Craiggow has interesting pinot same clone different soils taste the difference.

https://www.craigow.com.au/

                   Merriworth had  fuller fleshier darker fruited style pinot with an attractive supple element

https://merriworth.com.au/product/2021-estate-pinot-noir-750ml/

Pipers- Sinapius has a pretty red fruited pinot with some rhubarb elements.

https://sinapius.com.au/product/2021-close-planted-pinot-noir/

             Apogee is also worth a detour

https://www.apogeetasmania.com/

WINES I DID NOT get to taste

Dr Edge

Tolpuddle

Stargazer

Giant Steps

When I first visited the Tamar valley on my way to Tamar Ridge in Kayena to start the vintage in 2022. I was struck by the majesty and beauty of the river winding it's way up from Launceston to the Bass Strait. Here along this estuary were vineyards, stone fruit orchards olive groves and fishing villages as well as nature reserves and national parks just a short journey away.

The region is the engine room of the Tasmanian wine industry with over a third of Tasmania Production coming from the broader region.

The climate 

Maritime 

The region is definitely a cooler climate but warmer than the rest of Tasmania with the exception of some parts of the east coast depending on the year,  particularly the Northern section of the Tamar which benefits from the estuaries influence. The southern part of the region south of Launceston is a little bit cooler due to it's distance from the Tamar river . The cooler season gives them time to pick the grapes when they want to rather than be forced to pick due to rising sugar levels and lowering acidity. Many Austrian and German grape varieties should be suitable in this climate. Chardonnay is well suited. And Pinot Noirs problem may be a lack of heat and fuller ripeness which may be an advantage if your making a more delicate style rather than a structural Pinot. 

Due to the more maritime influences they may have a lot more hang time on the vine than say Burgundy. Which may mean that some of these vines will still get to some semblance of ripeness although being numerically cooler.

The Rosevears sub region will probably be a bit warmer based on the aspect and proximity to a large body of water . This may also be the case in some of the vineyards further north.

                                         MID SUMMER TEMPERATURES        HDD                  RAINFALL 

                                         Minimum / Mean /  Maximum               7Months              (mm)

Dijon Burgundy                    15.0     /  20.8   /     27.0                       1324                  474

Auxerre                                14.4     /  20.2   /     28                          1266                  433

Northern Launceston           12.6     /  18.7   /     24.8                       1243                  294

Southern Launceston           11.0    /   18.1   /     25.1                       1074                  292

Reims                                  12.9     /  18.8   /     24.7                        1018                  385

Geisenheim                         13.4     /  18.7   /     23.9                        1001                  342

http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages/tables/cw_091237.shtml  ( Northern Tamar Probably Slightly warmer and possibly more maritime than this site?)

http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages/tables/cw_091311.shtml ( Southern Tamar a little more diurnal range due to the distance from the Tamar River)

The sub regions

Their are new vineyard plantings near the airport as well as older plantings in Reibia. Further south east on your way to Ben Lomond at White Hills their are also large vineyard holdings mainly owned by Penfolds.. The southern section can be ripening fruit up to two or three weeks later than the north depending on the year.

Wines to Try : Josef Chromy , Penfolds (straight Pinot Noir or the Yattarna Chardonnay which has a % of Tasmanian fruit.)

In the Northern section you have

Legana 

 In amongst the urban sprawl one vineyard on lighter soils is able to ripen Cabernet Sauvignon no small feat in Tasmania.

Wineries: Velo Wines

Rosevears 

A warmer site that has an north easterly aspect and basalt soils. Probably some of the first fruit to be harvested in Tasmania due to its advantageous aspect on the ridge in front of a large body of estuarine water of the Tamar river.

Lots of vineyards here and wines made from both larger and smaller producers.

Gravelly Beach

 Is further north it has a few vineyards just up from the river and has produced some very smart chardonnay.

Wineries to try: Holyman wines/ Stoney Rise the Holyman Chardonnay is particularly good up their with the best in Tasmania.

Deviot 

A smaller vineyard has had some success with Shiraz where due to the aspect and proximity to the river (within 10-20m) they have been able to ripen shiraz on their steep east facing vineyard.

Wineries to Try: Marion's Vineyard

Kayena & Rowella

Here there are several vineyards that are surrounded on three sides by the river helping to moderate the climate. Larger vineyard holdings and smaller sites co exist. The whole gamut of varieties that are grown in Tasmania seem to thrive here. With a special mention to Shiraz as three producers have all had some very interesting and tasty cool climate styles. But both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were also impressive.

Wineries to try: Tamar Ridge, Holm Oak , Waterton Hall

Beaconsfield to Exeter 

Further back from the river but still with some maritime influence a few smaller producers are making some interesting wines from mainly chardonnay, pinot noir and the odd pinot gris even a couple of rieslings. Swinging Gate had an amarone style cabernet Pinot noir blend that was pretty interesting, and a more fleshy fuller Pinot Noir.

The grape varieties

What does well chardonnay is hands down the most interesting and high quality dependable variety, even the amateurs in the region are making decent chardonnay. 

Pinot Noir in the right hands with a good understanding of their vineyards , clones and winemaking techniques makes great tasty raspberry and cherry styles with more flesh than many other parts of Tasmania but still quite light to medium bodied. There is an honesty to the styles. With producers that lack experience with the variety the wines tend to be light easy but lacking in character.

Of coarse the climate is ideally suited to Sparkling wine with the methode traditionalle technique, as the chardonnay and pinot noir keep their acidity. This is the case all over Tasmania but in the Tamar the southern area is particularly suitable.

Riesling can be interesting and delicate more minerally and less citrus like the Clare, but may have an excess of acidity when young. with age they tend to come into their own.

Pinot Gris is probably the most commercially viable variety with yields and growing conditions. And when done well can have a beautiful drinkability, but unfortunately as a style not many will set the world on fire.

What struggles

Cabernet Sauvignon will struggle in general and anyone persisting with this grape here you have to ask why?

Having said that the one exception I found was at Velo wines where the poorer soils and fastidious vineyard management produced a very nice varietal cabernet. I would suggest that maybe this is a much warmer site and combined with the poorer soils  may also assist in it's success.

Surprises

Shiraz in general does not lose enough acidity to be considered viable in most of the Tamar looking green and harsh. But the warmer sites close to water have all shown that great shiraz is indeed possible in Tasmania particularly in a warmer year (here and possibly in the upper Derwent and Lower Coal River Valley). with some having white to black pepper red to black fruits and a European like elegance to the wines.

Activities

 Penguin spotting:

 If you wander up to Low Head you can visit the nests and resting spots of the local Penguin Population. Their are also untouched sites that can be visited all along the Northern Tasmanian Coastline to see these fascinating critters.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/low-head-historic-site

Gorge Hiking: 

Cataract Gorge is a must visit. Hike up to the swimming pool or adventure along the winding path right through the Cataract Gorge Reserve and the Trevallyn Nature Recreation Area, located nice and close to the city of Launceston in Tasmania.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/trevallyn-nature-recreation-area

Platypus : 

Platypus House at Beauty Point provides a great spot to check out these unique creatures . Great if you have kids on board. There is also a nice breakfast spot slightly further north where you can look out on the bay.

https://platypushouse.com.au/

Seahorse :

 Right next door to Platypus House Seahorse World gives you an up close experience with these tiny delicate marine animals.

https://seahorseworld.com.au/

Zoo:

Tasmania Zoo has a wild variety of animals to discover, probably the most interesting being the Tasmanian Devils and the Meercat population.

https://tasmaniazoo.com.au/

Hikes:

Ben Lomond:

Climbing up Jacobs ladder this landscape seems unique to this small part of Tasmania with its Dolerite Cliffs. Climbing up to 1500m the climate cools considerably as you move into a cloud covered alpine environment. In winter the top of the mountain has a skiing available. In summer its a playground for hikers and mountain climbers.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/ben-lomond-national-park

A serene  hike through magnificent old tree ferns that culminates in the waterfalls at the top of the hike. You wander through the rainforest and get glimpses of the creek and moutain ranges through small gaps in the undergrowth.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/liffey-falls-state-reserve

Narawntapu National Park:

A world away on a beautiful stretch of beach looking out over the Bass Strait in the Northern Part of the Tamar region.

https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/narawntapu-national-park

Food Options

Stillwater: 

Situated just off the Bridge in the entrance to Cataract Gorge. Some of the best food in Launceston. I had great coffee and some poached eggs for breakfast.

https://www.stillwater.com.au/

Smell

Fern Gullies near Launceston like a mini Liffey Falls at Notley Gorge

https://www.discovertasmania.com.au/things-to-do/nature-and-wildlife/notleyferngorge

See

Brady's Lookout in Tamar has gorgeous vistas looking north as the Tamar river snakes its way north towards the Bass Strait.

https://goo.gl/maps/JF4o6UfrQNS1wMET9

:Eddy flows of the Tamar River.

 If you get up before sunrise or in the early hours of the morning and sit around or near the Batman Bridge you can watch the whirlpool eddies and flow of the Tamar River. In the early morning light this becomes a peaceful yet visually breath taking experience.

https://goo.gl/maps/Aow49va7cG7UwN578

Padymelons around the Bonnie Beach Road and other parts of Kayena

VISIT

Taste 

Oysters from all over Tasmania

Raspberries and other delights from the berry farm in Hillwood.

https://www.hillwoodberries.com.au/

Wine bar

Havilah a cool spot amongst some other eateries across from Princes Square in Launceston.

https://havilahwine.com.au/

Other Options:

# James Boags Brewery Tours 

https://www.jamesboag.com.au/

# Local Macaques Population while strolling through the Botanic Gardens

# Rosvears Pub looking out on the Tamar

https://rosevearshotel.com.au/history

# Pinot Noir Heaven

https://www.pinotshop.com/

Coastal Valley vineyards of Chile 16th March 

Casablanca and the coastal Aconcagua are cooler areas than the inland regions due to the maritime influences from the cold ocean currents traveling up the western seaboard. With sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir being the major varieties.The days don't get as warm there is more humidity and the nights are milder.

Casablanca

Casablanca lies around twenty to thirty km from the coast and 40 to 50km wnw of Santiago with some variation in the soil profiles, ridges and steep hills either granitic cream grey sandy loam over sand going into stony pebbles or a higher iron content redder loamy soils. On the lower parts of the valley a heavier dark grey clay soil is predominant, it tends to delay the ripening of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc due to both usually a higher crop but also a cooler soil, compared to the others. Chardonnay and sauvignon blanc are harvested in mid to late march the more clay soils into april. Frost can be a problem earlier in the season and the easterly facing slopes are the coolest in the area.I found the chardonnay here particularly good, but it is very dependent upon the clone,site, management and crop load. the clones 96 and 548 being particularly impressive in regards to the fruit and acid balance. One vineyard of sauvignon blanc on the red soil was very impressive with a combination of herbaceous, mineral fruit and acid freshness. 

Aconcagua costa(coastal)

Is about 10 to 20 km from the coast and some 80 to 100km nw of Santiago the vineyard i visited was off the valley floor and quite simply a breathtaking vineyard. Every aspect and microclimate was covered and in an extraordinary fashion with steep rows that climb the heights and reach the depths of the property. Here the sauvignon blanc in certain sites (mainly the cooler spots either protected from the afternoon sun or exposed to the coastal winds) were particularly varietal, the more protected and warmer spots less so. Chardonnay here was more round and full not as much acid as Casablanca. They also have a pinot and syrah on the top of the hills on sites exposed to the coastal winds.  The pinot having red fruits and the syrah some pepper and berry but it  was a bit early to tell for the syrah. They were picking sauvignon blanc and chardonnay at the time of visiting and this was in mid- march.