A taste of Europe with a Modern twist
It was earlier in the 19th century when the Yarra Valley first had the vine take hold. Swiss
immigrants soon saw the potential of the area and what became Yering Station was first established
in 1849 by Paul de Castella. Soon more wineries were established with Pauls Brother Hubert and
Baron Guillaume de Pury starting St Huberts and Yeringberg respectively.
Melbourne was a wealthy city due to the Gold Rush. But a combination of phylloxera, a move to
fortifieds ,the depression of 1891 and competition from other wine regions from interstate post
federation caused the decline in the region. By 1937 there were no more vines in the Yarra Valley.
Phoenix rising
In the mid to late 1960's the region began afresh with new enthusiasm and a move towards table
wines again. Dr Bailey Carrodus at Yarra Yering, Dr John Middleton at Mount Mary , Reg Egan
from Wantirna Estate and the resurgence of Yeringberg by Guill de Pury. The persistence and
determination along with the high quality of the wines attracted the likes of James Halliday at
Coldstream Hills and Domaine Chandon with Tony Jordan and De Bortoli. From here the region
has gone from strength to strength.
People
The Yarra Valley now has a diverse range of well travelled winemakers and vignerons of
exceptional talent and personalities that have a national voice.
The stalwarts fom the internationally famous wine writer James Halliday and Steve Weber the
seasoned professional at De Bortoli to the winemakers of the year like Steve Flamsteed, Tom
Carson , Sarah Crowe and David Bicknell to the younger experimeters and innovators like Out of
Step and Mac Forbes and many others making great wine without the fanfare like Scott McCarthy,
Rob 'Sticks” Dolan, Andrew Fleming , Marc Lunt and Andrew Santarossa amongst many others.
Old families of the region still make wine. And it was enjoyable to visit the Yeringberg
vineyard and historic winery and chat with the humble and quietly spoken Sandra de Pury. She was
kind enough to let me plunge the Shiraz.
The sharing of ideas and the willingnesss to experiment means that whatever nature deals up
the region can mould wines of interest and elegance. Combined with being the lovechild of
Melbourne to assist in the finance at the quality end of the industry.
The Climate
The region in general is quite cool. Colder than Bordeaux and warmer than Burgundy but with a
greater diurnal range than both meaning that the day temperatures can be quite warm in summer but
the average temperature cool.
The region in Australia closest in climate to the Yarra would appear to be Tumbarumba
NSW albeit marginally cooler than the Yarra. They share a large diurnal range from night to day but
Tumbarumba has a slightly higher growing season rainfall but similar harvest period rainfall.
Coonawarra has very similar temperatures but is much drier normally so later ripening
varieties are probably under less disease pressure and have a greater possibility of uninterupted
hang time than in the Yarra. Coonawarra also shares a generally homogenous climate whereas the
Yarra has many varied and undulating aspects.
The Willamette Valley in Oregon USA also shares some temperature similarities but is
somewhat drier overall and has a cooler spring than in the Yarra.
The comparison below is with Coldstream on the southern end of the valley.The sub
regional variation due to elevation , aspect and exposure to warm northerly winds will no doubt
alter the range of what can ripen. The northern area around Dixons Creek being warmer and the
higher areas of Seville and Hoddles Creek considerably wetter and cooler. Any isolated hills that
could moderate the diurnal range variation would no doubt help in extending the scope of what
ripens which may be the case at Yarra Yering and surrounds.
WHAT DOES WELL
Chardonnay
Nearly every winery in the Yarra makes a Chardonnay and this variety is by far the most successful
for even the unintiated makes a descent chardonnay. And the best examples cover a few styles
where elegance and complexity come to the for. It all depends on how much Sly and the Family
Stone you can handle.
For full on funk Oakridge is the leader , this style tends to get better and more interesting with age
but it's not for everyone.
I quite liked the richer and more muscular Tarrawarra, and Giant Steps find a good middle ground
between funk and fruit weight. Even smaller Wineries like Pimpernel had some tasty drinks.
For my taste I quite preferred the fresh acid line and length but with a fruit lift with a little
funk or none at all from the higher areas of the Yarra up in Seville and Hoddles Creek , but for value
for money De Bortoli do a great job from the warmer Dixons Creek .The Lusatia Park vineyard
above 200m elevation up near Hoddles creek no matter who made the wine also gave great wines. I
think it is now owned soley by De Bortoli.
SHIRAZ
Although other red varieties are more favoured in the Yarra and more widely planted. For
me this variety is hands down the most interesting red coming out of the Yarra. The lifted white
pepper and berry fruits that a well made one can deliver provide a tasty and wonderful contrast to
the typical chocolate vanilla and alcohol that comes from the Barossa.People need to step outside
their South Australian comfort zone and try more elegant shiraz wines. De Bortoli, Giant Steps and
Seville Estate are a great place to start.
OLDER VINE BORDEAUX Blends
Some of the low yielding older vine blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and associates can provide
lovely elegance and interest. Yarra Yering ,Yeringberg and Mount Mary are testament to that. And I
tried a Cabernet blend from the southern Yarra at Helens Hill that was wonderfully varietal and
fleshy without the green edges. Oakridge also had an older blend that was great from a warmer year.
I think the secret to getting good cabernet blends is the higher isolated hill sites in the middle of the
valley that are north facing that fully ripen the varieties when the growth and yields are managed
well or in the northern warmer section where there is more heat load. The lower valley floor sites
are probably less suitable and the higher altutude sites in the southeast more challenging.
WHAT THEY CLAIM TO DO WELL
Pinot Noir
The region does make some great Pinot Noir. But for me this variety has the most hype and it tends
to under deliver. The ones that can get some flesh and suppleness into their wines I preferred like
Mandala “the Prophet”, Giant Steps and for quaffability 'the Village' at De Bortoli. Tarrawarra once
again had an interesting muscular style like the chardonnay and I found Pimpernel Pinots to be
good. Yeringberg for me is the best of the more delicate style.
Others in general were lighter fruit styles with a hardness either from too much stem or over
extracted and angular and astringent. The tannins are noticeable in the Pinots compared to other
regions. So any techniques to soften the tannins and add some flesh could only help.
Some producers from Willamette valley in Oregon use very gentle techniques so any
adoption of these would be welcome.
Heavier toast oak was used in some wineries to fill the palate out, not always successfully.
Cabernet Sauvignon Commercially
Even though Cabernet blends can be good particularly from lower yielding older vines and warmer
sites within the mid to northern section of the valley .
Generally speaking on it's own the commercial styles that were readily available suffer from
overly green elements that for me are unattractive. The region seems almost marginal for Cabernet
when made on a commercial level and I think they accept this greener character in their wines
through familiarity or necessity because the variety is so widely planted.
The climate trend of warming may improve the ripeness and flesh of the Cabernet Sauvignon in
the Yarra across the board.
SURPRISES
MERLOT
Merlot generally across Australia is disappointing with only a few regions doing it well. So it was a
surprise to try one at Coldstream Hills that was delicious. Which I think was solely Yarra valley
fruit. This variety should do well in the region as it ripens a bit earlier and is rain tolerant. Providing
the right clones are planted. Although tannin ripeness may be an issue.
Sauvignon Blanc
If you are looking for something a little different Dominque Portet does a fuller barrel fermented
sauvignon blanc which is quite interesting. Out of Step also had a great 'wild' example and
BoatO'Craigo had a vibrant style..
Best Of
White Blend: Yarra Yering Dry White No.1
Sauvignon Blanc: Boat O'Craigo or Out of Step
Chardonnay: Seville Estate or Wines from the Lusatia Park Vineyard
Pinot Noir: Fuller style : Mandala “The Prophet” Delicate style: Yeringberg
Shiraz: Giant Steps
Merlot: Coldstream Hills
Cabernet Blend: Helen's Hill for right Now Yarra Yering Dry Red No.1 for a decade on.
Best Value: De Bortoli
Fancy Pants Cellar Door: Domaine Chandon or Levantine hill
Cosy cellar Experience: Tarrawarra or Coombe Farm
Graze and taste: Giant Steps
Off the Beaten Track: :Long Gully Estate
Best alternate varieties: Soumah
Interesting Low Input Minimalists: Out Of Step and Bobar
Off the Grid: Serrat and Yeringberg
Other Activities
Cheese
The Yarra Valley dairy
Right in the middle of the valley this is a great break from the wines try the goat feta.
Chocolate
Just north east of Yarra Glen.
The free chocolate and Willy Wonka style outfits of the staff with windows into the making of the
chocolate and a massive outdoor play area along with the ice cream. This is the place to bribe the
kids on visiting a few more wineries. That is if you can ply them away from the place.
Food
Healesville Hotel has some great options
Giant Steps also has a large high roofed area and a window into the winery where you can
graze and relax in the afternoon
Beer
The White Rabbit Brewery is right behind Giant Steps in Healesville . They do season brews
and have a few different brews on tap.
Balloon Riding
Nearby Excursions
High country forests
Melbourne Laneways
Cycling
in the Middle valley off roads
