Having been to the land of Julius Caesar, Marcus Aurelius and Nero once before you realise that Italy holds a certain charm that makes you want to return. I sealed my fate when throwing a coin into the Trevi fountain, I was back for more. Vittorio an Italian or more accurately a Tuscan had done a vintage with me in the Yarra Valley and he invited me to his families property for the Tuscan Vintage.
Stumbling off the train in Florence I am surrounded by all manner of tourist. This is peak season in Tuscany and the buzz and hum at the station is particularly acute. Waiting for him to taxi me from the station I inadvertently begin people watching hoping to see a familiar face, From the immaculately dressed European well to do ready to be whisked off to a palatial villa on a postcard hillside in Chianti.To the Gypsy girl doing the well tread circuit of small change in the vending machines and looking for a careless traveler to give her an opportunity to be able to feed herself at the end of the day. This is the starting point for many an adventure with mine about to begin.
Seeing the welcoming face of Vittorio and his jovial manner "Bonjourno, andiamo!!!".We head south through the undulating country to somewhere between Siena and Florence right in the heart of Tuscany and Chianti. Traversing towards his home on every hill lie vineyards and olive groves with the familiar cypress trees and ancient stone villas with terracotta roof tiles straight out of a movie. The are over twenty five thousand wineries in Tuscany alone on every hill small families right through to large merchants make wine and olive oil for sale.
We arrive at Poggibonsi and then climb above the town to Montemorli a small hill village where the Vittorio and his family the Conforti's produce their wine and olive oil for over four generations. The historic hillside has postcard vista whichever way you care to look.
That night I share a meal with the whole family . Georgio and his whole family Florella his wife and the three brothers, Carlo, Vittorio , Guido and Carlos wife and son.
# The family
Seven generations of Conforti have worked at Montemorli and the work ethic and friendliness of the Conforti family is to be admired.
I was working in the cellar with the patriarch Georgio where a chalk board with the Italian and equivalent english word were written so we could attempt to communicate. Vittorio Guido and Carlo would help with picking and then in the cellar while Carlo would also run his own organic vegetable farm on the property. The Matriarch Florella would keep everyone in line and cook the most delicious local cuisine. Doing many regional dishes for my benefit. The whole family lived on the property.
# the vineyard
Sitting above the town of Poggibonsi you look west to San Gimignano south is Siena and east is the Chianti Classico areas closest is the Castellina sub region. The vineyard is a high trellised patchwork of mainly Sangiovese with supporting varieties of Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Colorino Mammolo and some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the reds and Trebbiano Toscana and Malvasia Bianca in the whites. From the top of the hills that sink into the forests crevasse between hills the top of the vineyard is dryer than the lower sections near the forests. This creates a looser bunch of Sangiovese on the dryer top areas and a tighter bunch on the lower sections.
# the winery
A small compact winery and crushing facility houses a remarkable volume of wine. In this small space they can do up to 200 tonne through the winery with the 15-20 tonne fermentation vessels made of concrete and a narrow tiled terracotta floor for work space.
# the region
Chianti colli Senesi Encompasses a Large area that is by no means consistent across the region the vineyards typically lie on hills at 200 to 400m above sea level so are typically a bit warmer than the Chianti Classico region that has higher altitudes. The soil is a clay dominant grey to orange soil that becomes heavier and less suitable the lower down towards the valley you go.
# the wine styles
Like all of Chianti Sangiovese dominates the scenery and is softened by the other varieties. On it's own sangiovese straight off press has a astringency that is excessive due to both the acidity and the tannin structure of the wine. This is soften and tamed in a number of ways.
1/ firstly during fermentation all wines are drained and returned into a small tub that helps introduce some air for a more advantageous environment for the yeasts and as a softener for the tannins.
2/ Secondly some co-fermentation is utilized to bring more aromatics and mildness to the palate with the likes of Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo.
3/ Thirdly the likes of Trebbiano Toscana and malvasie Bianca are co-fermented and/or blended to give the wine a fresher softer element.
4/ Oak maturation in larger bottes maintains some freshness but softens the tannins in the wine with time.
The co-fermentation works surprisingly well in bringing a lifted aroma and softness to the mainly Sangiovese blend.
As such the wines from this sub region tend to be easier to drink younger than some of the tighter less friendly wines from parts of Chianti. The traditional blends are still well thought of and admired compared to the structural oaked styles made from 100% Sangiovese in other parts of the region. The traditional style is all about 'Vino Da Tavolo" wine for the table. Wines to be enjoyed with the wonderful food and cheese on offer.
They also make a VIN SANTO this is a traditional style where the grapes mainly trebbiano and malvasia are dried on racks in a warm loft above the cellar. The grapes crushed and pressed off to ferment in barrel the ensuing white wine is madeirised and can be sweet but tradtionally is more savoury with an element of sweetness. The locals dip their biscotti in the wine.
# the olives
After the vintage has finished the olives are ready to pick in late October. The local olive oil is as old as the hills they are grown on. A vital ingredient to the tomato and basil with buffalo mozzarella and prosciutto. The local coops take the olives and return them to the growers as olive oil.
# activities
-Enduro riding below the family winery,
-Truffle hunting in Marche,
-Chestnet Festival on the Tuscany Coast,
- Local Wednesday and Saturday Markets in Poggibonsi for fresh organic produce from Montemorli or some other local fresh produce.
-Check out the Crystal Glass makers in the next hillside town of Colle di Val d'Elsa a pleasant walk along the old railway track now a bike path.
- Visit the winery and the Pizzeria at Montemorli
-Check out the local wine festivals like the Vino al Vino in Panzano in the heart of Greve Chianti Classico
-Visit Montalcino and Montepulciano south of Siena for bigger more structured, more oak defined Sangiovese
# San Gimignano
Towering above the hills west of Montemorli is San Gimignano a tourist town but one that was a key allied stronghold during the 2nd World War. It was on the Montemorli hill that Georgio shares a story of a German Commander dying in mortar exchange from Montimorli to San Gimignano. The high vantage point in the region has exceptional vistas to the east and surrounds to admire the rolling hillsides and picturesque farms olive groves and vineyards. The white Vernacchia grape is grown here with some fresh citrus blossom and nutty styled examples available.
# Siena
We got to visit Siena a few times. An interesting wealthy hillside fortified town that has sweeping tree lined streets as you enter on the southern side. The rivalry with Florence is most evident in the Duomo (cathedral) being unfinished. The Oenoteca under the old fortress has some great wines to taste from all over Italy not just Tuscany. Try the white Ansonica. Siena has much to offer in food wine historic buildings and beautiful scenery. It has the oldest still existing Bank in the world, and the Sienese do dress well.
# the food
All of Italy has something to offer. What Tuscany does well is simple produce grown locally and picked at its optimum. Cured ham, prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella, ripe tomatoes, fresh basil their own olive oil, zucchini flowers, all kinds of mushrooms and the rest.
Put together it just tastes so delicious. And the traditional wines are made to match.
# departure
Having helped with the vintage it was time to leave. I was treated like another brother and would like to thank the Conforti's for their generosity if they happen to read this.. A truly memorable time. From going to a beer tavern in a 12th century abbey. To walking along the ridges of the vineyards in the evenings. And visiting other winemakers in Chianti Classico and Montalcino. To just sharing the lunches made by Florella and siesta.
Alla prossima
